Hard Shell Binding repair

gilskigilski Posts: 7 Baller
Where can you buy the flat surface stainless steel nuts and screws to fix binding ratchet straps? Does anyone sell a good stainless steel ratchet buckles?

Comments

  • 94009400 Posts: 553 Solid Baller
    I have a link on my office computer, I'll try to find it tomorrow. I thinks it's something like M2 or something like that.
  • gilskigilski Posts: 7 Baller
    Hey thanks 9400. Spoke with m2 and they are still a little confused on the hardware. I'll try and upload a picture of what I am looking for as far as screws.
    Its_Fun
  • 94009400 Posts: 553 Solid Baller
    I think what you are looking for is "T-Nuts". I will find some at some point. I think I also asked M2 about them and they didn't carry them at the time. I'm sure you can find them somewhere. I elected to go with low profile stainless nuts and ground down the screws to right length since I didn't want to miss ski days and have never changed them out.
  • eleeskieleeski Posts: 3,080 MM Trick Skier / Eccentric Person
    boltdepot.com T-Nuts, 18-8 S/S #8-32, product #10481are the T-nuts I use. They have spikes that I bend off and work great.

    However, I don't use them on my hardshell clips. They are a bit long so I either have to grind them shorter (and retap the threads to clean out the grinder damage) or add a spacer. I find that @9400 's plan works well. My liners are thick enough that I don't notice the nut at all.

    The clip side with the strap holds up pretty well (but I have had a few fail). The nut side (inside) is not a problem. If you can feel it, add foam around the whole cuff (if on the cuff) or add epoxy paste to smooth it out. Getting the flathead screws to sit flat enough to have the clip lock is a bit of a challenge but with a proper countersink drill bit, no problem. Make sure you are using a short enough screw. Don't grind in place as that will melt the boot plastic.

    The locking clips don't last at all. They corrode quickly to where they won't stay locked. Also, the stock placement places the strap too far inside the shell which interferes with my liner. So I move the clip a bit farther out by drilling a new hole. Not so fast, the clip is now backward. So I drill out the rivet holding the clip together and reverse the clip orientation. A stainless cotter pin replaces the rivet shaft and holds up well. It is a bit tricky keeping the spring in place properly while you switch and there's a little tab that needs to be carefully ground or bent out of the way. But this setup is very robust, can clamp tighter and I don't think I've pulled out any clips (if I did, no big deal - just drill a new hole and move the clip a cm. Also, there's plenty of space for a regular nut since you are in the relief for the original strap.

    I haven't ordered from clip suppliers because it's too easy to find clips at the second hand sports rollerblade section. Hmmm, the strap side breakages have all happened with the used rollerblade parts so maybe that isn't the best plan. But the lock clips have all been great and some didn't need my modification.

    While the clips don't last very long and I replace the hinge rivets on my boots on day 1, if you are having a lot of hardware problems with the boot, it might be time for a new boot. I go through a lot of boots as the plastic is the life limiting part for me. Let us know if you find a good source for rollerblade boots that are modifiable. The rollerblade designs have changed and are not good crossovers to waterskiing. Hopefully Goode, Reflex and FM have a good supply on hand.

    Eric
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