O'brien hole pattern

StevenSteven Posts: 307
edited June 2010 in Other Stuff
does anyone know if the binding hole pattern match any of the other manufacturers? Specifically Radar 




  • DirtDirt Posts: 1,561 Open or 55K Rated Skier
    Steve, I have Radar Strada boots on an Obrien Elite and they matched up.
    I learned everything I know not to do from Horton
  • StevenSteven Posts: 307
    Thanks dsmart! So it's the Radar pattern that matches? The reason I ask is that I have a plate that I had made up at our shop and I only have the Radar hole pattern on it right now. I know that I have to add slots to accomodate D3. I just want to get all of the machining done before I have it anodized. 

  • RogerRoger Posts: 1,522 Crazy Baller
    dsmart, I don't think you can go by that. The Radar Sequence plate will fit ANY hole pattern in production right now. I don't know if the O'brien is the same as HO or the same as D3, but the sequence plate has both hole patterns.
    Roger B. Clark - Okeeheelee skier. Senior driver, Senior Judge
  • MattPMattP Posts: 5,968 Mega Baller
    HO, Radar, O'Brien all have the same hole patterns. D3 and Connelly have the same. Im not sure about the other smaller companies but from my experiance they usually fall in the OB HO pattern. All of the front binding holes are the same for every one i believe and the rear is whats different. Correct me if I'm wrong but the Elite has both rear hole patterns.
  • DirtDirt Posts: 1,561 Open or 55K Rated Skier
    I looked at it and you guys are right. The Elite has both rear patterns. When I had D3 bindings on it, it used the fwd most rear holes on the back binding. Now that I have Radar plates, it uses the furthest back holes on the rear part of the back binding. Sorry Steven for the incomplete info.
    I learned everything I know not to do from Horton
  • StevenSteven Posts: 307
    Thanks for your help! I want to make sure that I can attach my binders to all brands (since I'm doing it and have the opportunity to do so)

     Thanks again,

  • eleeskieleeski Posts: 3,728 Infinite Pandas
    One more thing to consider before anodizing, drill some lightening holes in the plate. There is a lot of material on a plate that is non structural and unnecessary for performance. You might not gain any buoys but you sure won't lose buoys if you remove a few grams.

    I'm wondering why you are anodizing. I used to use non anodized aluminum for my release system. My water is a bit salty and I do ski in salt water (and don't rinse after) but I didn't have a serious corrosion problem with the aluminum. The clips, rivets and other hardware do have a serious corrosion problem so I do expose my equipment to a harsh environment. Of course the aluminum didn't last all that long (for other reasons).

    I did switch to G10 because G10 doesn't bend permanently. The G10 holds up better (but I've still broken one G10 part) and it doesn't corrode at all. If you truly want to be universal, use G10 so you can use the interlock attach system. Aluminum plates bend when removed from interlock. Unfortunately, G10 is not lighter than aluminum so you'll still need the lightening holes.

  • StevenSteven Posts: 307
    The only reason for anodizing is to give it a finished look. As for weight, I used a plate that is 80 thou thick, so it's as thin as I can go given my weight (200 #) I've tried the interlock system before and wasn't real comfortable with it. I pre-released a few times and gave up on it before I got hurt. I'm not saying it's a bad system or trying to bash goode. I guess I just wasn't sold on it.

  • east tx skiereast tx skier Posts: 595 Solid Baller
    FWIW, my 07 Radar MPD has the same hole pattern as my 2004 Sixam 1.0.
    Perpetual Longline Baller. Tyler Ski Club, Tyler, Texas.
    My real name is in my profile.

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