Zero Off Single Puck install, any advice?

gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
edited September 15 in Boat Talk
I just got the puck and wiring harness today and no directions were included. The only thing I can find on their website is on the software side. No mounting instructions. Is there any special considerations on where and how to mount the antenna? @Jody_Seal anyone? Interesting it doesn't use any of the old round puck connectors, only communicates through the CAN cables.

Comments

  • SkiJaySkiJay Posts: 2,148 Mega Baller
    For what it's worth, I was told by one of the inside R&D guys who had boxes of different pucks in his shop that if you have a two puck system, don't try to convert it to a one puck setup. They are different systems and the components don't play well together when mixed and matched.
    www.FinWhispering.com ... because understanding is better than memorizing
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    @gregy looks like you have a related question to one I just posted but maybe a little more advanced. I would love if anyone could simply tell me the basics of the puck install on a single puck system. Like where do I physically put the antenna after plugging it in.
    gregy
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 647 Crazy Baller
    edited September 16
    Starboard side in front of the windshield is typical (200). I would use starboard location of current garmin puck (if two puck system upgrade).

    I'm assuming of course that you have the ECOM cable, file, Aquastar or Diacom program with laptop to flash the head unit with the new software.

    stå løpet ut
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 647 Crazy Baller
    @gregy or @jercrane - can you post a pic of the bottom of that new single puck?
    stå løpet ut
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller


  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    Ok so it sounds like I want it in front of the glass? Hmm so on a 197 where would you put it? Right here?


    And any idea how I access that? Do the front seat back rests pop out somehow?

    Man that's gonna be a big ass hole.
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    Would it effect performance if it was behind the glass on the flat part of the dash?
  • eleeskieleeski Posts: 3,031 MM Trick Skier / Eccentric Person
    My seat bottom pops out. I take it out to replace the steering cable. You should have access to that area along the same path as the steering cable. Use a fish tape down to where you can get to things and make a guide string. Should be straightforward.

    Just drill the hole where it belongs! You already added a custom cleat nearby. You will love the ZO and keep it.

    Keep us posted on how everything works. I might have a similar project.

    Eric
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 647 Crazy Baller
    edited September 16
    @jercrane - thanks for the pic. Clearly looks like a big hole required to accommodate the socket. I'd drill 4 small holes to match the profile (and clasp notch) and with a jig-saw to cut out a square hole (with rounded corners), trying to minimize the overall size. A single round hole would seem a bit huge.

    Have seen some pucks inside the windshield (in front of the dash) that function fine.
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    jercrane
  • gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
    edited September 16
    I installed pop cleats and had to drill some big holes. I put masking tap over the area and step the drill sizes up a little each time. A hole saw might work as well. Jig saw idea would minimize the hole size. Either way you need to taper the edges around the hole keep the gel coat from chipping. I used a Dremel tool before. Thanks for the input everyone!
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    Last question. Does it matter how flat it is? That area I am looking at mounting is slightly curved so there's really no way to mount it perfectly perpendicular to the sky. I'm guessing this is fine given the attitude of a boats hull is constantly changing anyway but thought I'd check anyway.
  • gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
    I emailed zero off Friday. If I get a reply I'll pass it on.
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    Ugh so apparently this is a lot less plug and play than I thought. I can't for the life of me figure out where to plug all the connectors in. I'm guessing I need to know a lot more about the electrical system to do this but any ideas? Diagram somewhere? Any way for me to figure this out that y'all can think of?
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 647 Crazy Baller
    @jercrane - check your inbox
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  • gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
    edited September 16
    @jercrane The new antenna does not use the any of the old antenna connectors.

    The two Triangle shaped connectors are for the communication (2 blue wires one with white stripe and other with purple strip). The rectangular connectors are for power (12VDC red, Ground Black, Switched Voltage pink).

    You should have similar shaped connectors under you dash (in the wiring harness that comes out of the back of the Zero off head unit). If you can find the same shaped connectors with similar colored wires it should all plug together. I'm not familiar with the MC but there may be a communication hub that has connectors plugged into it. Most likely this would be under the dash. Basically what this cable does is kinda splice into existing wires by using existing connectors.
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    Ok @gregy that's what I was thinking but I haven't been able find the appropriate connectors to splice into. Might be out of my league.
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    @gregy so which of these connectors will I not be using?


    And do I need to use this other harness that came in the package that says "GPS puck retrofit"?


    Thanks
  • skierjpskierjp Posts: 452 Solid Baller
    The connectors are shape specific, you can't mess up. You tube deutsch connector, it shows how to take it apart. You only need to drill a small hole for 2 wires. Piece of cake. You still have to have the program and the down load cable before it will work.
  • skierjpskierjp Posts: 452 Solid Baller
    FYI if Nautique thought the antenna would work behind the windshield they would have installed it there. It will work but ....,
  • gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
    edited September 17
    Schematic Diagram

    1 and 5 should be for the old antennas which you don't use with new antenna.
    4 is for a jump switch don't use
    3 and 7 are the communication. These you need. The should be the two blue stripped cables going into these.
    2 and 6 are the power wires, 12vdc, ground, Vsw.

    So you have to have communication from the ECM computer on back of the engine to the head unit in the dash. You have to splice into that those wires with the new antenna cable. Same with the power. Check out the link to diagrams.

    The new antenna needs 4 wires, 2 blue striped wires for communication and 12vdc and ground so I don't really see an advantage to taking the plug apart. Drill the hole for the antenna however you want plug the connector into the back of the antenna, keep it simple.
  • gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
    edited September 17


    @jercrane This is the antenna harness, you can see where the splices are. I agree they make it more completed than it needs to be. But it's for the sake of keeping it plug and play.
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    edited September 18
    Ok so I thought I'd drop a final post in here and let you all knows I got her up and running today. For posterity here's what I did. #1 I finally understood that not every connector on the eci harness was actually going to be plugged into something.

    Under dash.


    There's a black triangle open connector in the middle there. Comms plugged in there. The other weird thing for me was that the harness plug had 3 wires and this plug in the boat only had 2. Whatever...

    See the female grey connector in upper right. That got the square power connector. Then the antenna plugs into two of the mess of connectors coming out of the main harness about half way down the length.


    After all this I had 5 connectors still completely disconnected with no obvious mates but I decided to turn the battery on and see what happened. Voila head unit powers up. Next test let's take her for a spin.



    Boom locked in to 34.2 mph. (Err well close enough anyway. Tough to take a pic as it's bouncing between 34.1 and 34.3)

    So then after that I drilled and mounted the puck up front of the dash and used a fish tape to pull the connector through. That freaked me out drilling the hull but it looks great now and working like a charm. Sorry forgot to take a pic of the puck install.

    Thanks for the help
    gregyeleeski
  • gregygregy Posts: 2,359 Mega Baller
    So a tech from E-controls called me today. He said mount it as level as possible but the main thing is that the arrow on the antenna points in the direction on travel (arrow points toward bow). He said it would work under the windshield but for 3 event it would be better to have in the open. Evidently a lot of the wake board boats come from the factory with the antenna mounted under the windshield.
    Jody_Seal
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    On a related note, now that I am up and running. Has anyone ever put together a Zero Off for dummies manual? The writing in the manual that comes with it is god awful. The pull type settings for instance are baffling to me.
  • LeonLLeonL Posts: 1,897 Crazy Baller
    2012 CP on our lake has the pucks (dual) mounted behind the windshield. @skierjp said "it works, but...." I'm not aware of any problems experienced by the CP.
    Leon Leonard Stillwater Lake KY - SR Driver SR Judge
  • jercranejercrane Posts: 29 Baller
    OK in case anyone else comes across this I finally found this excellent resource for learning ZO http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/7944/everything-you-need-to-know-about-zero-off-for-2013

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