Bolts to attach hard boot to plate

cacmancacman Posts: 71 Baller
Looking to attach a hard boot to plate. Any thought on where to get fasteners. And what kind.


  • DWDW Posts: 1,863 Mega Baller
    Your local (good) hardware store should have the stainless steel fasteners you want, McMaster Carr will have a large selection of fasteners to fit your needs. 8-32 tends to be the size.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,904 Mega Baller
    I bought a few of these several years back

    Which go inside the boot, and hold a T nut from spinning -

    Then I drill and counter sink the plate from the bottom using a standard counter sink bit -

    Cut the screws to the length you need using a wire stripper - obviously use either metric or standard depending what you like to do, using this tool the threads will be restored.

  • cacmancacman Posts: 71 Baller
  • skialexskialex Posts: 756 Crazy Baller
    @cacman 10/32 stainless steel prong nuts from , like the above picture.
    Very good prices, a great source for all kind of stainless steel nuts and screws you need for your ski and ski projects.
  • skialexskialex Posts: 756 Crazy Baller
    @BraceMaker I really like the wire stripper idea, how do you cut the ss screws with that? Do you use it to mark where to cut or actually cut the screws?
    If I can use this instead of a grinder it will save me time and have more accurate cuts.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,904 Mega Baller
    @skialex See the holes around the pivot in the tool? That one is metric so m3 m4 etc. Then it says insert screw this side. So you thread the screw into the tool to however long you want it with the tool open as pictured then when you squeeze the handles the tool rotates which chomps the screw to whatever length. When you unscrew it the threads in the tool clean up the burr like a die.

    Electricians are all the time needing to shorten those screws that hang fixtures and wall plates. So when you are fixing an outlet in your house and you have to unthread 3" long screws blame the guy who didn't know that was there.
  • mwetskiermwetskier Posts: 1,329 Mega Baller
    fyi the screws electricians cut with the threaded holes on a wire stripper are way softer than decent industrial grade stainless i would use in attaching a boot to a plate. i've tried using the wire stripper for stainless screws and its not a pleasant experience.

    instead, anyplace you can buy decent stainless machine screws will also sell you matching nuts, which don't have to be stainless. screw a nut all the way on to any screw you want to shorten, then cut the the screw with heavy wire cutters or a small bolt cutter. after cutting simply unscrew the nut from the machine screw, using a screw driver and holding the nut with vice grips. as the nut comes off the screw it will automatically clean up the threads and you can then lightly file or grind the screw tip to remove any sharp edges.

    also i would use stainless t-nuts for this wet application which you can buy here: no rust in my binding
  • JustinJustin Posts: 52 Baller
    Can you guys post pictures of your set ups? Curious how it looks, spacing etc.
    I am looking at mounting Fluid Motions on a Goode Powerplate.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,904 Mega Baller
    @mwetskier they are but for the 8- and 10- I've not had much trouble with a good quality tool. Wouldn't try it with the hardware store dollar bin.
  • mwetskiermwetskier Posts: 1,329 Mega Baller
    @Bracemaker -okay. except that a small package of matching machine nuts might cost as much as $2 at home depot while your good quality tool is likely to be 10 times that. so unless a guy already has that specialty tool or can justify buying it for its intended use its gonna be cheaper and physically easier to do it the old fashioned way. imo as always.
  • cacmancacman Posts: 71 Baller
    @BraceMaker I installed the two jam plates from fluid motion. They seem to work out great but worried 4 screws attached to two plates are not enoughto hold boot to plate.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,904 Mega Baller
    How does your boot seem rigid?
  • cacmancacman Posts: 71 Baller
    Roller blade boot just like a Reflex
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,904 Mega Baller
    I meant with the plate - that system worked pretty well on the FM plates, on a few revisions I would put a second T-nut in the area under the ball of my big toe, and one under the ball of the little toe, but that was when I was playing with letting the hindfoot move more than the forefoot - on that shell I rounded the base of the heel and squared off the forefoot. Kind of liked that actually.
  • cacmancacman Posts: 71 Baller

  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,904 Mega Baller
    That should do nicely. You can also drop some t nuts in those two holes in front.
  • cacmancacman Posts: 71 Baller
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