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Anchors for portable/semi permanent course

WBLskierWBLskier Posts: 427 Baller
Follow up to a thread from yesterday...we have a portable course that stays up all summer but we need to move (remove entirely and reinstall in different location) about 5 times a summer. One person moves it using a fishing boat. I would like some thoughts on what is best to use for end course anchors. Leaning towards 30lb river anchors, but open to other ideas. Key is that they hold well but one person can get them up and into a fishing boat wihout killing himself. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Comments

  • KillerKiller Posts: 315 Baller
    the 30lb river anchors tend to be best IMO
    schaferEd_Obermeier
  • h2onhkh2onhk Posts: 217 Baller
    +1 for the 30lb river anchors.
    schafer
  • GlydonGlydon Posts: 221 Baller
    I would just like to be educated on how to build one in a river ... if anyone has instructions other than to buy an ez-slalom. TIA
  • Orlando76Orlando76 Posts: 644 Crazy Baller
    I always heard 30lb river anchors. EZ Ed swears by them. Personally I’ve dropped 100lbs or so of crap on one end and then a claw anchors, maybe 30lbs on the other end with beat luck. But the portable I was involved with never got pulled only straightened every set.

    Similar to what we’ve used.
  • jpwhitjpwhit Posts: 51 Baller
    Another key thing that I've found that makes anchors hold much more reliably, is having 4" of heavy lead chain attached to the anchor. Then attach your line to the other end of the lead chain.
  • Fam-manFam-man Posts: 157 Baller
    On our semi permanent course we use 5 gallon pails half full with concrete. It is a weedy/ muddy bottom and they get sunk in and hold well.
    On the portable holiday course I use 30 pound river anchors in a sandy/ clay bottom. They hold so well we had a challenge retrieving one. It was on the upwind side and got pushed in pretty hard. Course didn't need adjustment after a week of afternoon whitecap winds.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,607 Mega Baller
    How deep is it?

    If you use ~5 locations and you want an accurate set up you can run an auger in at one end and use a heavy carabiner instead of an anchor and if you attach a short length of chain and a sub-float you can snag it with something pretty easy. The nice thing then is when you tighten the course it doesn't keep moving and you can map based on the one end being fixed in position.

    Before this the portable meant mapping was pretty useless.
    Zman
  • DeanoskiDeanoski Posts: 723 Crazy Baller
    We use 90-100. Lbs Anchors. Make it solid and will not slide on the bottom


  • ZmanZman Posts: 1,114 Crazy Baller
    We did what @BraceMaker said. Water depth about 20 feet, with scuba gear, screwed auger in for anchor at one end. This keeps the course fixed.
    We used a group of cinder blocks to anchor the other end.
    To also keep our center line fixed I screwed another auger in the lake bottom, about 20 feet in from the cinder blocks, right under the anchor line. Then pulled the anchor line down and into the eyelet at the top of the auger.
    The cinder blocks are free to move up or down course with lake level changes, but centerline is fixed.
    In your case, you might put in just one auger at each of your 5 locations. Then use the same 30 pound anchor on the other end of the course each time you move your course.
    How deep is your lake? Good luck!
    Blood type IPA
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