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Bindings wont stay put. Anyone seen this?

MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 114 Baller
I recently put Tfactors on my S2 and can't get the front boot to stay where I put it. Fasteners are Radar black wide head screws . Since the Tfactors have a slot for each screw for the front boot and not a hole , it can slide out of adjustment. I keep setting all 6 in the middle of the slot, and after about 2 sets the boot is back to all the way forward again. If I don;t re-tighten the screws after each set it starts to move. Anyone else seen this? Any advice on better screws? Anything else? I'm tempted to go with a nut on the end that I can tighten with a small ratchet but don't want to pull the inserts out. Love the tfactors but just want them to stat in place. Thanks

MDB..............................................

Comments

  • Stevie BoyStevie Boy Posts: 1,719 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    As @Drago says the two middle holes are counter sunk, DO NOT PUT standard length screws in, they must be cut down or purchase shorter screws, however in my experience the binding can still move if the screws become slightly loose, I have made my own inserts that fit in the back slot out of polymorph I then drill a hole in the insert in the required position which prevents movement.
    The quick easy solution is Mikro Just as stated above, which also gives you fine adjustment if required, purchase at.
    http://www.mikro-just.com

    " Change Edge Early or Go Home”

    Mick04aupatking
  • skialexskialex Posts: 731 Crazy Baller
    D3 provides the right screws for the countersunked middle slots. However becouse the ss screws are directly in touch with the aluminum plate, they corrode the metal and after a while they go through the plate. And it also looks ugly.
    The Radar wide head screws are really nice and have these plastic washers underneath that prevent corrosion. Use them in conjunction with a mikrojust. Or use polymorph moldable plastic inserts as @Stevie Boy suggested

  • MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 114 Baller
    Thanks all - Think I'll go Mikro! Love the tfactors, just need them to stay put!
    Horton
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,779 Mega Baller
    You can also use stainless finish washers they'll bite into the aluminum plate enough not the let the plate slip. That was how FM used to keep the plates still.
    mmosley899
  • shansen345shansen345 Posts: 171 Baller
    Use a D3 hardware kit. It will come with the shorter screws for the middle holes. That should keep it in place. Most new ski inserts take the same screw thread.
  • skibugskibug Posts: 1,978
    edited July 28
    @MDB1056 I have had similar issues with my Fluid Motion binding because they are fully slotted (no middle plate holes). I do use the Mikro-Adjust and I also put a few strips of anti-skid tread tape on the ski. I have used the anti-skid tread tape without the Mikro-adjust and it works great, so either way you would be good.


    https://www.homedepot.com/p/19-7-in-x-5-9-in-Roll-Commercial-High-Grit-XL-Step-Anti-Slip-Tape-Black-Tread-Safety-for-Stairs-and-Walkways-251/303155314
    Bob Grizzi
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 2,779 Mega Baller
    edited July 28
    @skibug Paul uses these https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-2906-Number-8-Stainless-40-Pack/dp/B00HYLZZMQ

    If you get stainless they bite into the plate so it won't slip.
  • wawaskrwawaskr Posts: 161 Baller
    I use Leverage bindings, and had the same issue. I cut tiny pieces of HDPE sheet and fit them behind front binding rear screws - basically filling the gap in the binding plate slot behind the screw - and making it impossible for the binding to slide forward. On the rear binding, I did the same with the rear screws - to prevent the binding from rotating and always loosening the binding screws.
    Matt
  • pcmcon729pcmcon729 Posts: 37 Baller
    I have T-Factors, and have the same issue with front, even with the proper middle screws.
    Where can I get the mikro-adjust, and is it made specifically for ski bindings? Also, my rear T-Factor was getting toed out every set, but I filled the forward holes with epoxy and drilled out where I like them, which is about 5 degrees off center. That worked.
  • LeonLLeonL Posts: 2,250 Crazy Baller
    Never had a problem with t factor front moving. Use the correct bevel screw to match the counter sunk plate and you shouldn't have a problem.
    Leon Leonard Stillwater Lake KY - SR Driver SR Judge
  • ZmanZman Posts: 1,200 Crazy Baller
    Mikro-just.
    Works great! Quality product.
    Blood type IPA
  • MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 114 Baller
    As follow up - Mikro-Just is great. EZ install and no movement at all. Could easily transfer to another binding too if desired. Love it. I'm a customer for life
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