Ski Tweaking Stands

skibug

Ok, so I am already bored with this Xmas holiday. I had a few left over 3/4" PVC fittings and pipe lying around the garage. I had to buy a few more fittings to supplement my supply; but, here is what I concocted. I am not 100% complete as I plan to pad the surfaces where the ski makes contact with insulation foam padding. It was rather cheap, very portable, and serves it purpose of not having to work on my ski on the tail gate, swim platform, picnic table, etc. relying on my bindings to balance the ski.

Horton

@skibug
Well done

Ed_Obermeier

Cool design @skibug. I enjoy Fun With PVC projects! :>)

DW

Sweet, nice work.

Inboardfix

Not sure padding is really needed since the pvc isn't likely to scratch anything. However, it sure won't hurt. Very cool idea. Cheap, lightweight and easy (qualities of a perfect date when I was single).

Pat M

Love it. The only suggestion I have is to ad a small length of pipe out the feet and slip some rubber boot/feet thingys on them to make it none slip

skibug

BTW...I didn't glue any of the joints. It works fine without gluing and can be reconfigured or adjusted if need be.

Waternut

PVC is like lego's for adults... The pvc will scratch the ski's shiny top skin as even the foam on my racks scratches that but they are very fine scratches so who cares. More importantly, some form of padding will help keep it from sliding around. I'd recommend it on the feet as well. I have a variety of left over traction mat that I use for countless things from jetski's, boats, bikes, etc. and love it but it's kinda pricey if you're just buying it to pad a budget ski rack.

http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-skis/blacktip-sheet-goods.html

ToddL

So, my son is into Paintball and wanted to make a marker/gun stand out of PVC pipe. While we were at the store, I bought a few extra pieces for my own stand...
I used @skibug 's design, but made a couple of tweaks.

First, I didn't feel the need to have as wide of a base, so I eliminated the downward "T" sections on each side of the risers.


Second, I felt like the gap between the risers was a little too much for the tail end of a ski which is placed flat on top. I decided to put a "T" on top of one of the risers and make a narrow shelf on that side. This shelf can be pivoted sideways when the stand is used to hold a ski on edge. When you want to hold the ski flat on top, this "T" riser can be pivoted back cross-ways to hold the ski's width behind the rear boot.



Third, I added a little pipe insulation to the front stand to see how that worked. I kind of like it. However, I want to get 1" inside diameter pipe insulation to see if I can get it to fit over the "T" and elbow fittings' wider diameters.


Finally, I think that some of the joints need to be glued. If you were to place a ski on top and put any pressure on it (like screwing down a binding plate), the risers will pivot and flop down. So, I think at minimum, the crossbar which runs under the risers from "T" to "T" should all be glued. The corner base extensions could stay just friction fitted. The riser posts could also stay just friction fitted.


So, that's it. Probably less than $20 in total materials...
PS: I had an old Connelly as a display ski in the den, so that's what I used in the pics.

skibug

Nice tweaks. I agree that the downward "t" is probably not needed, unless you want to add height to the base by adding lengths of pipe. My original thought was that i would need this extra height; but, it turns out I didn't. If you did, I think you would need the extra support between the outriggers if you were to put pressure on the stand.