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Old Black Reflex Boot Mod

JaxeJaxe Posts: 2 New Baller
Talking reflex boots after my buddy ripped a set on my setup and told me how uncomfortable my boot was. We got to comparing and he has the "newer" black shell and I the "older" black shell, the newer black shell having the "open oval" plastic removed at and above the achilles tendon. I was reading up on the reflex boot mod on BOS per this link ( and was hoping someone could elaborate on the modifications done to the old boot. From what I understand people have just cut up / out some of the upper cuff plastic.


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  • AdamCordAdamCord Posts: 807 Open or 55K Rated Skier
    @Horton I'm traveling now otherwise I'd take some pics of my boot and post.
  • mlangemlange Posts: 205 Baller
    That's exactly all you do. My boot is out at the lake so I can't provide a picture, but I just took a dremel, cut out that one piece and cleaned it up with a sanding wheel. Piece of cake.
  • AdamCordAdamCord Posts: 807 Open or 55K Rated Skier
    My take on it is that hardshells are old re-purposed rollerblade boots that were never designed to be high end, and they were meant to fit everyone's foot. Also the way you pressure your ankle and foot in a rollerblade is a lot different from how we need to on a slalom ski. Here's a quick run down of the mods I made that I think were good:

    1. Toe box is too high. You don't want to be able to lift your toes up. I used a heat gun to flatten the toe area so it's a much more snug fit.
    2. Bottom curvature lifts your toes too much. This makes it difficult to move forward over the ball of your front foot the way you need to. Heat up and flatten the front part of the boot.
    3. Cuff is way too high. You need to be able to move your ankle front/back AND left/right. Cut the cuff down as low as possible and move the cuff buckle as low as possible.
    4. Boot plastic under cuff comes up too high. Same as above, plus it cuts into your ankle. Cut that down.
    5. Heel lifts inside the boot. Use a heat gun to bring in the area on the sides of your achilles so it can lock your heel in more. You don't want to be able to lift your heel while skiing.
    6. Middle buckle is too low. Move it up toward your ankle or add another buckle.

    I think that's it. If I were home I'd take some pictures. Also I think these problems are pretty universal with all hardshell boots. Basically we all should get @Brewski to make custom boots for us, or we should try our best to make off the shelf hardshells look like the boots he makes :smile:
  • mmosley899mmosley899 Posts: 644 Water Ski Industry Professional
    @Jaxe I agree with @AdamCord all hard shells are re-purposes skate boots and will take some effort to modify for the best comfort and fit, and performance, according to your own personal preference.
    Mike's Overall Binding
    Sweet Home Alabama Skiing
    Senior Judge, Senior Driver, Tech Controller
  • Chef23Chef23 Posts: 6,009 Mega Baller
    @AdamCord did you make modifications to the piece that holds the toe of the boot in place after the mods? If you flatten the toe box down I would think it might get loose.
    Mark Shaffer
  • TWBTWB Posts: 162 Baller
    I always thought it would be better if the bottom of the toe box wasn't curved so much. I have the same question as @Chef23. The toe bar usually has a spacer in it. Maybe you could just take it out.
    Tom Burnham
  • DefectiveDaveDefectiveDave Posts: 479 Solid Baller
    edited June 2015
    I have one additional mod that I think is a must have for the reflex boots. The geometry for the top cuff that holds your ankle in place is not in a good leveraged position, especially if you have skinny ankles like me. Many times I would get back in the boat and realize that cuff had completely disengaged (i.e. popped loose). This makes it less likely the boot will release in any given fall and makes the ski feel sloppier than normal.

    I added a buckle to hold the top-cuff down and in place, it works great and at least makes me feel safer. I just used some parachord and a plastic buckle. I'll post picks when I get home.
  • AdamCordAdamCord Posts: 807 Open or 55K Rated Skier
    @Chef23 @TWB yes I lowered the toe bar. I'm not sure how much, maybe 1/4".
  • DefectiveDaveDefectiveDave Posts: 479 Solid Baller
    edited June 2015
    Here's my ghetto locking strap for the top buckle. I think the GOAT does something similar where he just totally anchors the saw-toothed strip on the latch side and just pushes it through the locking mechanism. It accomplishes the same thing, but I just wanted to be able to cinch it a little tighter.

    And here's the back, though this picture is a bit blurry:

  • DeanoskiDeanoski Posts: 906 Crazy Baller
    Here a few pics of my shell.
  • DeanoskiDeanoski Posts: 906 Crazy Baller
  • DeanoskiDeanoski Posts: 906 Crazy Baller
  • DeanoskiDeanoski Posts: 906 Crazy Baller
    One of the things that help is the pladtic tongue sewn In. Gives you smooth. Flex and you don't feel like your falling out the back like you do with the rear cut out (like the white boot).

    Tool dip on the liner keeps down wear and tear and increases liner to shell grip. Works awesome

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