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Fin or binding adjustment

BoozeBooze Posts: 402 Crazy Baller
Ok Guys, I hate to do one of those "so, this is happening, how should I adjust my fin" posts. I 'think' I have a good understanding of cause and effect in this area, but I'm not sure and could use some feedback before my 2-week trial period ends on a new ski.
I've tried 100 stock, and need to try some variations.
On toe side, it's not particularly agressive in carving. It will just keep going downcouse until I really commit, and then BAM, it really snaps around, sometimes breaking me at the waist. I want a more agressive predictable 'carve' without the hit. Of course, everything out there indicates that if you're breaking at the waist on your toeside, take some length out...but will that make it even harder to initiate the carve/turn?
The heel-side is similar. When coming into the bouy and laid on a hard edge, it has somewhat of a delay in coming back under me causing a roll in too deep or causing a timing issue with reach/rotation/hookup. When it does come around, it does plenty hard enough.
This is at 35/38 34mph. I'm on the light side of the range for the ski @194lb on a 67.75".
Im thinking shallower and shorter. DFT, I don't know. Will more or less tip pressure and tighter or wider radius help?
Thanks for the feedback,
ps: I just saw an edit was done to the published numbers, the binding went from 29 11/16 to 29 9/16, so perhaps that needs to happen first.


  • webbdawg99webbdawg99 Posts: 1,067 Mega Baller
    Sounds like something I recently experienced. It sounds like the ski snaps around as you move forward over the front in the offside? If this is the case, you probably need to reduce length as you said.

    When I was experiencing the same thing I felt like I was either riding the tail (no turn initiation) or it would suddenly snap around on me with no happy medium. Reducing length resolved this for me.

    .005 would be a small, incremental move. .010 would be a good, noticeable move. .015 is a large move that would dramatically change the turning characteristics. Based on what you said, I'd make a .010 decrease in length and then fine tune from there.
  • BoozeBooze Posts: 402 Crazy Baller
    @webbdawg99 - yeah, that's it. Thanks.
  • webbdawg99webbdawg99 Posts: 1,067 Mega Baller
    When you reduce length, just make sure that your depth and dft stay the same. You only want to make one change at a time.
  • ColeGiacopuzziColeGiacopuzzi Posts: 448 Open or 55K Rated Skier
    edited June 2015
    If you are curious about bindings, the way I do it on a new ski is you start with stock and you move it forward until the point of failure (where the tip starts to bite at the finish of the turn) then go back one hole from there. Also you can do the same going back, until you feel the ski wheelie a ton, but usually I just go forward and do that because you want to be forward on the ski anyway!
  • acmxacmx Posts: 239 Baller
    @Booze , what ski are you trying?
  • MattPMattP Posts: 6,091 Mega Baller
    @Colebrah are you talking about binding holes?? How much is a hole? @Horton does not have you on a micro-just yet?!
  • HortonHorton Posts: 28,755 Administrator
    @Colebrah I totally deny knowing you or ever coaching you.
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  • mbabiashmbabiash Posts: 545 Crazy Baller
    67.75 sounds like a Flextail.
  • BoozeBooze Posts: 402 Crazy Baller
    Yep, it's a FishTail. Excellent from side to side. I just have to get the turns ironed out
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