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Perfect Pass on an outboard

Andrew9909Andrew9909 Posts: 4 Baller
Hey Ballers

Looking for some info on my Perfect Pass Digital Pro 6.5. I have one fitted to my 1996 Johnson 225 outboard. I love it...until recently when my marine mechanic decided to redo the mounts and now it doesn't work properly. Now when I switch it on, it auto tightens too much and pulls the throttle out of idle. The mechanic says I need to recalibrate the servo idle position in the set up, but I can't find that anywhere in the setup process. The Perfect Pass tech says I need to eliminate the cable showing where it connects to the throttle arm. In theory he's right, but I'm sure before the mounts were changed it was the same as it is now. And they are used to fitting to inboard engines only. Who's right?? Does anyone here have knowledge of a set up for an outboard? I've heard Greg Hind makes mods to run these units on outboards.
Some photos included to see what I've currently got.

Please help. My boat is sitting on the trailer during our southern hemisphere summer!!


  • GregHindGregHind Posts: 340 Solid Baller
    Interesting setup. How about a photo with the throttle at idle (in neutral)
  • skihackerskihacker Posts: 331 Baller
    This is a bit of a guess but doesn't the pp servo auto tighten at key on every time? Maybe just needs a little more return spring on the throttle?
  • GregHindGregHind Posts: 340 Solid Baller
    The auto tighten should not be able to pull it past idle at idle setting on the hand throttle. There should be no cable showing at idle, the brass hex must be against the thread. Give us a photo at idle and I will help
  • Andrew9909Andrew9909 Posts: 4 Baller
    These are photos of the throttle at idle position. It sounds like I need to modify the bottom fitting so the brass hex touches the thread as suggested. This would make it work at idle and I guess would need an on water test to see if it ran ok with speed. What confuses me is that I am sure the servo used to anticlockwise turn first then clockwise turn during auto tighten. And there was always cable showing by the hex nut. Is there anyway to 'set' the idle position of the servo or is my memory bad and it just always auto tightens clockwise until the cable is tight? Many thanks for your replies!!
  • Mateo_VargasMateo_Vargas Posts: 858 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Wouldn’t the clockwise/anticlockwise thing be backwards in the Southern Hemisphere?
    Success is failure that just hasn't happened yet
  • GregHindGregHind Posts: 340 Solid Baller
    That’s why it won’t idle, it’s dangerous as is. Don’t worry about the auto tighten or servo that isn’t the problem.

    When your throttle is set to idle the engine should be physically forced to idle. It should not be able to be in any other position.

    How did it look before the mechanic changed it all?
  • GregHindGregHind Posts: 340 Solid Baller
    I run PP on an Etec 225 which uses the same push throttle configuration as your engine. My setup is very different but I can see how your would work.

    You just need to do 2 things.
    1. Close the gap so no cable showing
    2. idle on your hand throttle must force the engine throttle to idle. No help from PP, servo or anything else. It must physically force it to idle.
  • Andrew9909Andrew9909 Posts: 4 Baller
    Thanks Greg.

    I think I'll modify it tomorrow so no cable will show. I'm pretty sure it should fix the problem. Unfortunately I can't remember what the set up looked like before the 'up grade' . I've had the boat for 10 years and it's worked perfectly so I've not paid much attention to it. The mechanic decided to 'fix' it without me asking him too. I'm pretty sure he's not seen a set up like this before so his advice hasn't helped at all!
    Much appreciate your expert advice.
    I'll let you know the result!
  • Andrew9909Andrew9909 Posts: 4 Baller
    Finally managed to get a day to test my new set up. Works perfectly with no cable showing now. Thanks very much @greghind for your advice.
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