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Oil Change - How often?

ConPexErConPexEr Posts: 22 Baller
For a typical ski boat is do you change the oil every 40 hrs?


  • IlivetoskiIlivetoski Posts: 1,185 Crazy Baller
    50 hours
  • j2nhj2nh Posts: 63 Baller
    40-50 hours. What the manual for PCM calls for. Sometimes a little early if I know I am going to be using the boat a lot in the coming days. Rather change early that wait.
  • oldjeepoldjeep Posts: 3,429 Mega Baller
    50 and end of season
    Chuck P
    Not a mechanic but I play one at home
  • Alberto SoaresAlberto Soares Posts: 309 Solid Baller
    Once a year
  • blakeyatesblakeyates Posts: 138 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Stay with 50. I have done a few oil analysis and there is good reason to stay with that change interval for oil and filter.
    Blake Yates
    Nautique Promo Rep, GA
  • JmoskiJmoski Posts: 295 Baller
    Every 50 or yearly (which ever comes first) for those who run year round.

    For northerners where the season unfortunately has to end - every 50 and end of season, you don't want it sitting for months with dirty oil over the winter.

    I only log about 35-45 hours a year so I get away with one change in November.
  • DynaSkiPeteDynaSkiPete Posts: 137 Baller
    So you change the oil at the end of the season only?
  • DavidNDavidN Posts: 287 Crazy Baller
    Same here - about every 50/60 hours, usually in the fall, no off-season here in FL. ;)
  • skihackerskihacker Posts: 323 Baller
    I never go past 50 hrs in a season up here in the north so a synthetic oil change right before it goes in the barn.
  • ScottScottScottScott Posts: 851 Crazy Baller
    We just bought the boat in October and are getting close to a 2nd oil change. A change oil warning comes up every 50 hours.
  • JmoskiJmoski Posts: 295 Baller
    @DynaSkiPete - in my case yes, I winterize the boat every November which includes new oil & filter (I pour about 3/4 qt of new oil directly into the new filter before screwing it on) and then it sits in my garage until April.

    Starting in April I only log 40 hours by November because I have two friends with boats - hence we rotate.

    Then I change and leave ready for the spring.

    One year I logged 70, so I changed in August at 50 and then again 20 hours later at winterization time. Some might call that a waste, but I didn’t want to leave dirty oil in the block over the winter.
  • DynaSkiPeteDynaSkiPete Posts: 137 Baller
    Thanks. Now I'm curious what the procedure is for wintering an inboard? I just push a button and my Evinrude winterizes itself. Only have to make sure the water all drains out of the motor. Very simple. Come spring, top off the battery and turn the key. Sometimes I disconnect the battery for the winter.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 3,801 Mega Baller

    Boat hot, drain oil change filter, new filter new oil.

    Block drains x2 manifold drains x2 open hoses, drain trans cooler. Replace hoses replace plugs. Add pink antifreeze if ya want to.

    Fog if you want to.

    Harder than outboard? Yes.... hard? No.
  • DynaSkiPeteDynaSkiPete Posts: 137 Baller
    What does a dealer charge? The dealers I know have insurance in case of a damaged motor come spring. What do you owners think?
  • IlivetoskiIlivetoski Posts: 1,185 Crazy Baller
    Personally I don’t think I know anyone with a ski boat who takes a boat to a dealer for an oil change... it’s too simple to pay a dealer to do it
  • HortonHorton Posts: 27,871 Administrator
    In Bakersfield we winterize our boats by putting the cover on

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  • Chef23Chef23 Posts: 5,962 Mega Baller
    I do pretty much what @Jmoski does. I generally put no more than 50 hours on my boat during the season.
    Mark Shaffer
  • brettmainerbrettmainer Posts: 257 Crazy Baller
    I’m curious as to common club / ski school boat oil change intervals. This time of year, 50hrs is every week. I’ll change the oil every two weeks and not worry if has been 80hrs. This year we are rotating 3 boats so it is easy to keep up with the 50hr interval, but even so, I don’t stress on the 50.00hrs part when I know that it has only been a couple of weeks. I do know that I’ve never let one of my boats go over 80hrs.

    Also, I do find it better to change the oil after skiing, in the shade, and while drinking beer.

    I assume others also let the 50hrs slide a little under similar circumstances, but I’m curious.
  • DynaSkiPeteDynaSkiPete Posts: 137 Baller
    I used to change my own vehicle oil. The Ford Quick Lanes do it so cheap and they check a whole bunch of things and top off other fluids along with a tire rotate. SO I quit messing with saving very little money and having to dispose of the old oil and filters. I suppose this is somewhat of a do it yourself group? So do you that have to all winterize your boats too? Ever had a block crack?
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 3,801 Mega Baller
    @DynaSkiPete that's sort of a tolerance for upsells. Quick lubes are fine but they make money on all the other stuff they sell. Less at marinas.

    Most are either DIY or pay the same marina to winterize that stores it.
  • eleeskieleeski Posts: 3,888 Infinite Pandas
    edited June 2018
    @DynaSkiPete Yes. I think the UCLA kids forgot to drain my block before a rare hard freeze. Possibly a cooling problem though (the mice ate a heater hose). Or something else. They put a piston through the block in the spring somehow. It's possible they hadn't checked the oil - ever. The oil in the bilge was pretty clean.

    @Horton They had put the cover on though. In my desert, we just need to put gas in - for the next ride.

    Wish there was a button to push to winterize.

    Fortunately they didn't waste the oil by changing it when it didn't need it. 50 hours? Wait until it's dirty. Maintenance on condition is always best for your budget, the environment and your equipment (

    I've NEVER had dirty oil damage any engine on anything.

  • MISkierMISkier Posts: 2,603 Mega Baller
    @DynaSkiPete, my dealer charges $300 for a winterization, which includes oil/filter change, transmission fluid change, fuel filter change, and antifreeze in the block.
    The worst slalom equipment I own is between my ears.
  • DWDW Posts: 2,026 Mega Baller
    Just for some fun numbers, 50 hours in your tow vehicle pulling you at 36 mph would equate to 1,800 miles or if you double that due to boat engine speed, heck even triple it for the newer boats, that would be 5,400 miles. In other words, that 50 hour change interval is pretty conservative particularly with how good modern oils have become. I am not suggesting anybody change their patterns, just putting some numbers to the question.

    @DynaSkiPete : No, as noted above, pop off the 2 block plugs, a few hoses and let the water drain, do that while the oil is draining out of the engine in a pan under the boat, very simple. Blowing out the heater core is done at the same time. Same time as taking out the stuff I don't want in the boat all winter & checking over any issues from the summer running. I also pull the impeller and keep in a plastic bag during the off season, and that process is very easy on my boat, don't have to separate the upper & lower units.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 3,801 Mega Baller
    @DW splitting lower units ugh. I remember back when we had an OMC outdrive and that sucker would eat gimble bearings like its job. Got easier just to plan on pulling the outdrive every other year and replacing it to avoid having it go out on the lift and need to get the trailer back out. Then bellows and lower unit lube.

    Before that we had an outboard and a lift cable snapped while we were away, stern swamped and of course the power head got underwater for several days. $$$$
  • JmoskiJmoski Posts: 295 Baller
    edited June 2018
    Performing my own maintenance and winterization is all about having the piece of mind of knowing it was done correctly.

    I also happen to be mechanically inclined so it fun for me and I like knowing exactly how everything works.

    Some people meditate or do yoga, I maintain my equipment to perfection when I have downtime - beats mowing the lawn :-)
  • swc5150swc5150 Posts: 2,263 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    In our swamp boat ('91 Prostar), I'd run the engine up to temp on a fake-a-lake, then use a small hose to suck up 10 gallons of antifreeze through the engine. Never had an issue up here in cold WI.
    Scott Calderwood
  • tjs1295tjs1295 Posts: 37 Baller
    I fully winterize my boat, and even pour antifreeze in. I always wondered if I really have to since my boat is stored in the heated garage at my house, and never sees less than 50 degrees. It sees colder temps during the summer on the lift. I'd still do the oil and tranny fluid, but what do some of you guys do who don't use your boat for a while, and don't winterize? Is it still a good idea to avoid rust/corrosion?
  • bbruzzesebbruzzese Posts: 120 Baller
    I hate to ask oil questions but... A while back there was a post around the fact that Rotella 15W40 no longer carried the endorsement for gas engines. I know there were/are a bunch of Rotella users here...anyone still using it anyway?
  • ZmanZman Posts: 1,515 Crazy Baller
    Switched to Chevron Delo 400 SDE, 15W-40 and no regrets.
  • skiinxsskiinxs Posts: 555 Crazy Baller
    Yep, Chevron Delo still has it, checked a couple days ago after finding that Royal Purple synthetic lost it and is another that only carries diesel certifications. Is it only a matter of time before they all lose the SM or SN certification in a 15W40?
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