Slalom binding placement and advise please

ReallyGottaSkiReallyGottaSki Posts: 349 Crazy Baller
Hello everyone

I'm in need of some advanced direction placing bindings on a ski correctly the first time and not mess it up

Let me begin with a little backstory and interesting details that may be relevant ...

A ski friend saw i was still on my '94 vintage Connelly HP and asked why i'm still skiing on that dinosaur bone..
Well, over the years i hadn't tried anything worth giving it up over, it always felt right to me.
He arranged to set up a purchase of a used blank from another guy, i replied just cant, currently things are tight post-divorce; he replied don't worry....
Well i'm handed a '07 vintage Connelly F1 that feels light as a feather, i said i can't afford this he says yeah you can.
So i take it home, he says, its got a good story., i'll tell you later..

Well indeed i have it now for the price of a good pair of sneakers.
When i saw it, determined its too good to mount my clunky HP boots on it like i had first envisioned. Figured id get a modern binding set for it on closeout whenever i could.
So later on he tells me that it had changed hands prior but I learn that it is one of Jamie B's old sticks!
now i really don't want to mess it up

It appears to have been set up for an advanced plate or hardshell system. There are only 1/4-20 inserts at the extreme ends, i dont recognize the system and my searches came up empty

that said, I scored some very visually complimentary Radar bindings on closeout, but, not connelly


1) So, how sacrilegious is it to mix brands on this ski?

2) Before i dare drill a hole, i want to get binding placement as correct as possible
My first inclination is place the back of my heels identically as my HP, while adjusted proportionately for any delta-length.
But please advise..

3) If i direct-mount, intend to use 5/8" ss pan head or truss head screws, into drilled pilot holes

4) Has one utilized a lightweight plate to adapt std plate bindings to the eight 1/4-20 inserts in the center-line
(4 front/ 4 astern) thus not making additional holes in the ski?

The total weight is looking like 7# vs my 10.5# HP, so i'm a bit excited about that

thanks for anything you can advise ballers,


with intended bindings..sure is purdy...

my old trusty HP


  • mbabiashmbabiash Posts: 639 Crazy Baller
    JB used Fogman hardshell system which used front and rear plates for the release mechanism.
  • DavidNDavidN Posts: 612 Crazy Baller
    edited January 2019
    Here are the numbers for the 2007 F1

    Binding placement is measured from the tail of the ski to the back of the rubber (heel) on the front boot.

  • Steven_HainesSteven_Haines Posts: 1,079 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    You can use interlock instead of drilling holes
  • S1PittsS1Pitts Posts: 392 Crazy Baller
    I would be cautious. That F1 may not have the blocks beneath the top sheet to accept and hold the sheet metal screws. Maybe check with Connelly?
    I would be inclined to make up an adapter plate utilizing the fore/aft mounts to allow the Radars to be used until the fogman system could be replicated.
    Cool Ski.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 5,142 Mega Baller
    You'll be fine. Either find front boot measurement and just screw it in with #10 stainless sheet metal screws like we've done for 40 years or drill and insert inserts but you'll be fine just set a drill stop so you dont drill through the bottom.
  • aupatkingaupatking Posts: 1,796 Mega Baller
    I would hang it on the wall. My fear would be that they didn’t put the plastic (whatever) inserts in it at all, where the inserts would normally be. PM me. I may have a ski
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 5,142 Mega Baller
    @aupatking I had a Connelly back then, Wiley's just drilled and screwed right in with sheet metal screws when I ordered from them. Then I mounted FM quattros to it and had to drill and screw into the front and rear to add more inserts.

    Those fogmans were just drilled in also.

    What you basically want to do is drill, then using a small burr in a dremel open up around the screw hole, then inject fill those holes with some epoxy, then redrill. Makes them less likely to strip. Wiley's FYI did not put filler around the holes.
  • ReallyGottaSkiReallyGottaSki Posts: 349 Crazy Baller
    Thank you men, outstanding. for your spectrum of observations and thoughtful suggestions, they are all valid and worthy of consideration this winter
    much obliged

  • HortonHorton Posts: 32,537 Administrator

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  • ReallyGottaSkiReallyGottaSki Posts: 349 Crazy Baller
    very good,

    and, appears I was mistaken, and as BraceMaker sez, the Fogmans were set with #12 x3/8 oval head screws, not 1/4-20 as i misreported. Also an adhesive
  • CollinSpradlinCollinSpradlin Posts: 33 Water Ski Industry Professional
    @ReallyGottaSki Sorry I'm a few days late. I checked with the people who built this ski and if it did come from Jamie it's possible we left out the ABS blocks in the normal binding insert areas. Shoot me an email if you want to discuss further. [email protected]
  • ReallyGottaSkiReallyGottaSki Posts: 349 Crazy Baller
    edited January 2019
    Seth, and Collin, and everyone

    Thank you all for both endeavoring to getting me on this ski proper and not shooting my eye out in the process
  • ALPJrALPJr Posts: 2,845 Mega Baller
    Now that's pretty good customer service :)
  • MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 1,010 Crazy Baller
    Gorgeous engine, and way cool ski. Go enjoy life............ You're so blessed
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