Dripless Packing Dripping - 2016 SN200

brettmainerbrettmainer Posts: 372 Crazy Baller
Towards the end of last season, the 4th season on my 2016 200, the shaft packing started dripping to the point where the bilge comes on after every pass. I want to fix it before I put the boat back in this spring, but there is nothing to tighten or grease.

A quick internet search suggests I might need to buy new dripless packing kit, which requires removing the shaft from transmission to install. Mechanical ballers who have worked on this problem, is this the only way to fix leak? If so, my big concern would be reinstalling the shaft with good alignment. Is this a real concern or is it monkey proof?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Comments

  • skierjpskierjp Posts: 1,047 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    By removing the shaft you will not have to do a realignment. Are you sure it’s the dripless packing?
  • ResponseSkierResponseSkier Posts: 9 Baller
    edited March 2020
    I'm doing the same thing right now on my TXi. Buy the Dripless Glide Shaft Seal. Removing the shaft from the trans is the easy part, getting the coupler off the trans is the harder part. Once you get the parts, leave a day to work on it and you will get it done.

    This video has good tips: https://youtube.com/watch?v=s9_K7EnH1wY
  • brettmainerbrettmainer Posts: 372 Crazy Baller
    @skierjp
    Pretty sure. I can see the water dripping from it. Boat has 700hrs. Leak started about 650hrs.
    @ResponseSkier
    I’d rather not spend a day working on it. I’m pretty busy these days. Sounds like I should open the wallet and drop it off at dealer.
    Jody_SealKRoundyliquid d
  • DougDoug Posts: 49 Baller
    Call me Brett 909-223-4427
  • BrennanKMNBrennanKMN Posts: 557 Crazy Baller
    Is this a common thing with dripless packing?

    I have never had a boat with one but have toyed with the idea installing one. I always stop after I realize I could change my packing 20 times for the time and money it would cost me to install a dripless packing in the aftermarket.
    swc5150MDB1056ISP6ball
  • jimskijimski Posts: 616 Crazy Baller
    There pressure sealed
    I would make sure it’s adjusted properly before I replace it
  • jerrymjerrym Posts: 95 Baller
    Our dripless seal is dripping....excessively. Can these units be adjusted? We have a 2019 SN 200 with 400 hrs on it.
  • UCFskierUCFskier Posts: 98 Baller
    not sure with these newer boats but we always used graphite string, wrap around the shaft and reset the nut that secures the packing... took about 4 min to do
  • brettmainerbrettmainer Posts: 372 Crazy Baller
    No adjustment. Need to replace. I bought the seal from Miami Nautique this spring and had a local boat mechanic replace it. He said the internal wear that caused the leak was from shaft misalignment. I hit a submerged branch and wasted a prop when the boat had about 10hrs on it. Never a noticeable vibration, but just enough to wear the seal over time. He saved the old seal for me. The wear and thus the cause were obvious.
  • jerrymjerrym Posts: 95 Baller
    @brettmainer thanks for the input. I was hoping I was missing something.
  • ClydesdaleClydesdale Posts: 289 Solid Baller
    @jerrym mines doing the same. Also a 2019. Curious was your shaft misaligned too, or just needed seal replacement. Thanks!
  • Tracks72Tracks72 Posts: 10 New Baller
    I just went through this and found this link to be VERY helpful. its a pretty easy job just don't get in a rush and clean everything up really good before reinstalling.

    https://pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=2
  • ClydesdaleClydesdale Posts: 289 Solid Baller
    Thanks @Tracks72 . Unfortunately this is one of the new “dripless” seals. This is my first experience with one of these and I think I’d prefer to go back to the traditional like yours!
  • jhughesjhughes Posts: 1,142 Mega Baller
    edited August 30
    Nautique uses the OJ dripless seal which is simply 2 fairly delicate graphite lip seals that ride on the shaft surface. The fix is replacement, drop the rudder and pull the shaft to do it. I think they are fantastic when they work but it seems like failure is pretty common. At least most of these new boats should have double taper shafts that should come free of the coupler fairly easily. Good opportunity to replace the strut bushings too.
  • Tracks72Tracks72 Posts: 10 New Baller
    @Clydesdale my bad...
    Cnewbert
  • ClydesdaleClydesdale Posts: 289 Solid Baller
    Thanks @jhughes. New to me, but doesn’t sound too bad. Anything to watch out for when dropping rudder or disconnecting shaft? Also, I don’t think my seal is an OJ. It says “glide” and a google search looks like that’s the name of the manufacturer. Or is it really made by OJ?
  • jhughesjhughes Posts: 1,142 Mega Baller
    @Clydesdale maybe they use a few manufacturers, my 16 has an OJ
  • RichardDoaneRichardDoane Posts: 4,787 Mega Baller
    That glide assembly needs to be replaced with the carbon style. Go to nautiqueparts .com. Put 5101 into the search field. I did one today on a 2019 CC. Works slick.
    BallOfSpray Pacific Northwest Vice President of Event Management, aka "Zappy"
  • RichardDoaneRichardDoane Posts: 4,787 Mega Baller

    BallOfSpray Pacific Northwest Vice President of Event Management, aka "Zappy"
    Skoot1123
  • ClydesdaleClydesdale Posts: 289 Solid Baller
    Thanks @RichardDoane . That one looks more “robust”. Did they stop using the glide? Or is this a better unit used on other models? Just curious.
  • RichardDoaneRichardDoane Posts: 4,787 Mega Baller
    @Clydesdale not sure about the glide, just know that the carbon style drip less is a better system. I’ve installed a few in the past years and they work great. Having the right puller for the coupling removal is key.
    BallOfSpray Pacific Northwest Vice President of Event Management, aka "Zappy"
  • oldjeepoldjeep Posts: 3,880 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Don't know what brand my Malibu uses but 9 years later it is still dripless. Can't say that I have heard of failures on the Malibu forums.
    Chuck P
    Not a mechanic but I play one at home
    Clydesdale
  • ClydesdaleClydesdale Posts: 289 Solid Baller
    @RichardDoane thanks. any tips on accessing the rudder? Looks like I may need to hire a double-jointed circus freak.
  • RichardDoaneRichardDoane Posts: 4,787 Mega Baller
    Usually don’t need to remove the rudder. We just slide the shaft and prop back and pad the prop with a towel, then remove the packing assembly off the front of the shaft after coupling removal.
    BallOfSpray Pacific Northwest Vice President of Event Management, aka "Zappy"
    buechsr
  • ClydesdaleClydesdale Posts: 289 Solid Baller
    @RichardDoane thank god!
    jbanjo
  • buechsrbuechsr Posts: 149 Baller
    I second that you shouldn't need to remove the rudder. At worst you can remove the prop (before you disconnect from coupler) which should allow (has on the 2 boats I've done this) the shaft to come out completely by sliding past the rudder. That's my recollection, at least.

    I agree it's a perfect time to replace your strut bushing. They really might not "need" to be done, but you'd have to go through the same process to do so later. I used the plastic (vesconite?) bushings last time on a Barefoot Nautique. Your dealer can either send the strut off or if you have access to a puller (can be had through skidim) then you should be able to do it while installed without removing it but don't quote me on that. I do have some recollection of having to mounting a strut to a board that I put in a vice to get the bushing out. But that may have been removed for another reason.

    And while you're at it! You should check the alignment. IF you don't know how, say so and I or someone else can explain process. Alignment is one of those things that should really be done more than it usually is.
  • TomHTomH Posts: 67 Baller
    Alignment, or lack thereof, is also what likely contributed to the dripless failing in the first place. It's also pretty common for the shaft to be riding low in the shaft log if engine mounts have worn/settled. That will put more load on the bottom of the seal and prematurely wear it out. That PSS is a nice unit, but OJ also has a newer one out that is considerably cheaper, and doesn't need a water line.
  • buechsrbuechsr Posts: 149 Baller
    Tom, How would bad alignment contribute to a dripless system failing? I can't just wrap my head around that?
  • TomHTomH Posts: 67 Baller
    Being out of alignment (particularly with relation to the through-hull) can put uneven loads on the seal, and over time can oval out the seal. The flexibility of the seal plays a part and can mitigate some of it, but it's still there, and the seals will last much longer when the pressure is even around the circumference.
  • buechsrbuechsr Posts: 149 Baller
    I guess. I just don't see how alignment has any effect on the seal since the shaft is running through the channel that's attached to the shaft.

    In any event, I think we're in agreement its the opportune time to check the alignment, which is done too infrequently anyway.
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