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Draining/Winterizing 2011 CES 6L ZR409 - Help Please

unksskisunksskis Posts: 567 Crazy Baller
edited December 2020 in Trick and Jump
I am attempting to drain my 6L for the first time, and encountering surprises or possible issues, or I don't know this motor like I thought. I am following this diagram;


I disconnected the inlet hose to the transmission cooler (1 in diagram) and the raw water pump outbound hose (#2 in diagram), water comes out fine.

For #3, Fresh Water Drain, is located in the middle of the heat exchanger, and will drain coolant. The Raw Water Drain is located on the passenger side, more towards the top at like 2 o'clock. Here is an image;


When removing the Raw Water Drain, nothing comes out as it is facing upward, should I remove the hose coming from below?

When removing the the Exhaust manifold hose (#4) and the Exhaust corner drain plugs (#5), radiator fluid, or at least a mixture of predominantly coolant comes out.


Therefore, in following the instruction manual, as well as guidance from others, there seems to be something going on for coolant to be coming out.

Here is a link to the manual I am using;
https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/imagesOwners-Operations-Manual-2011.pdf

@Jody_Seal hopefully you may have some insights.

Thank you for any help and recommendations.




Comments

  • Bruce_ButterfieldBruce_Butterfield Posts: 1,906 Member of the BallOfSpray Hall Of Fame
    I have the same engine. The biggest thing is to get all the fresh water out you can, then use 3-4 gallons of RV antifreeze through until it comes out the exhaust. Disconnect intake hose on the engine side of the strainer and pour directly in to hose. If you only drain fresh water you run the risk of small amounts remaining in the trans cooler and muffler that can cause cracks if frozen (I learned the hard way).

    You can trace the fresh water intake hose to where it enters the heat exchanger, disconnect and let water drain. Also pull plugs 4 and 5 on both sides. Something is really odd if you are getting coolant out of these. By using the RV antifreeze, its not absolutely necessary to drain first, but a little overkill won't hurt.
    I'm Ancient. WTH do I know?
    unksskis
  • RobRob Posts: 66 Baller
    edited December 2020
    LOL - this is the very same confusion I encountered when I first had to drain my 409 (2010 model but pretty sure it's identical). Those illustrations, while not bad, are far from perfect. Then raw water vs fresh water - also fun.

    Anyway I agree 100% with Bruce. Although I don't run antifreeze through the system like he recommends I do think that's a very good idea. Basically just trace the hose from intake through the system, disconnecting as you go with focus on the lowest points. At the exchanger you may accidentally disconnect the wrong hose (done it more than once) and coolant will come out instead of water...good times but an easy fix to just add a bit more in the reservoir.

    Good to know a couple others with this engine type on here...
    unksskis
  • unksskisunksskis Posts: 567 Crazy Baller
    edited December 2020
    Thanks @Bruce_Butterfield and @Rob . I think I'm good with navigating the diagram and connections, but uncertain why coolant would be in the exhaust (4 and 5), and if that's the case wouldn't I be losing coolant? Appreciate the help!

    @Bruce_Butterfield are you running it when or after you put the antifreeze in the intake hose?
  • unksskisunksskis Posts: 567 Crazy Baller
    So according to my local CC dealer, the 2011 is more of a closed system than the newer 6L's (2015), and the coolant is supposed to be in the manifolds. Instructed me to just disconnect hoses, drain exchanger, and strainer.
  • KelvinKelvin Posts: 1,277 Mega Baller
    In 2011 there was a HALF closed system and a FULL closed sytem.
    Kelvin Kelm, Lakes of Katy, Katy Texas
    unksskis
  • Bruce_ButterfieldBruce_Butterfield Posts: 1,906 Member of the BallOfSpray Hall Of Fame
    Ahh, that makes sense. Mine is a 2015

    To run the RV antifreeze through, disconnect the strainer hose, start the engine and slowley pour the antifreeze in the hose. A break of a handful of seconds without pouring anything in won't hurt anything as the impeller will still be lubricated and it will be turning slowly. Keep the engine going until you see pink stuff coming out the exhaust.

    I change out the impeller and fuel filters in the spring before putting it back in the water.
    I'm Ancient. WTH do I know?
    unksskis
  • unksskisunksskis Posts: 567 Crazy Baller
    @Kelvin thanks, is there an easy way to identify which it would be without getting coolant all over the place?
  • KelvinKelvin Posts: 1,277 Mega Baller
    edited December 2020
    @unksskis I believe my 2011 had the full system so more of the exhaust system had anti-freeze. On that boat, I didn't really do much to it since the hose to the shaft seal drained the heat exchanger, but I'm further south than you.

    The only thing I can think of as a difference in the sytems is the half system had a smaller black heat exchanger and the full system had a larger grey heat exchanger. That is compared to my other 6L engines.

    I don't have the 2011 anymore so I can't take photos to share with you.
    Kelvin Kelm, Lakes of Katy, Katy Texas
    unksskis
  • unksskisunksskis Posts: 567 Crazy Baller
    @Kelvin yes, mine has a larger heat exchanger than other boats at the lakes. I also noticed the hose exiting the heat exchanger. Should I worry about the loss of coolant or air in the system now? Thanks for the help!
  • KelvinKelvin Posts: 1,277 Mega Baller
    @unksskis Read Jody Seal's discussion in this thread on air in the cooling system. https://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/15876/2011-nautique-200-zr409-6-0-overheat-issue
    Kelvin Kelm, Lakes of Katy, Katy Texas
    unksskis
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