Some dates are wrong
1962 - Minnesota slalom skiers used Northland slalom skis. Warren Witherall, who had his signature on the ski cut 1.25 inches of the back of our skis and moved the fin forward. As a high-school student, I felt felt pain when he extended the fin slot forward with a big hand saw.
1967 - Just before the Texas Nationals I was trying to make a Maharajah ski work. KLP could make the ski work, but other skiers would just fall over into their good-side turn when they were on their difficult rope lengths. To widen the ski along front foot, I used a band saw to cut a slot down the right side of the ski from the tip to the back of the front binding, then spread the gap and filled it with resin. It worked pretty good. The 1967 Austin Texas Nationals were on a river during a Texas flash flood with logs, branches and huge rollers in the course. Jump champion Chuck Stearns won slalom, I think I placed 7th. Many of the top seeded skiers fell in the rollers . . Floods are an equalizer. When Merrill Lapoint saw my Maharajah ski, he thought the saw cut was to fix a manufacturing defect rather than to "tune" it. I declined his offer to send me a new ski.
1968 - When Dave Saucier wanted to get a skier on a Saucier ski, he would meet you at Lake Saucier in a woods in the middle of a farm somewhere. Before you ever tried the ski, he would fill his boat with white dust as he made the very large round bevels larger and rounder.
1969 - When Leroy Burnett was the slalom sensation on a wood Obrien, running 30 off (or was it 36 off ?) at every tournament, I drove to his house in Northern California to get a ski. It was the best ski I had to date after I widened the ski with epoxy about 3/32" on the good side turn from the front heal forward. Later MasterCraft-Obrien built in the same asymmetry with their La Point Radius ski, which was sold in 2 versions, for Left or Right foot forward.
Fast forward to 2021 - as an outsider trying to start over in M9 in a few months, I have the impression that sandpaper, saws, resin and files are no longer part of breaking in a new slalom ski. I just spent $1200 on a blank ski, where would I start with carpenters tools? But Finally, it looks like manufacturers have figured out that all the older skis were too narrow under the front foot. Now the top 66-67" skis (such as D3 EVO and ION) are 3/16 to 5/16" wider than the universal 6 9/16 width from the past.
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Comments
I tried my hardest to ski on that thing for two years. It didn’t turn. I would occasionally bury the tip on wake crossings. I wiped out a lot.
When I was 13, the local sporting goods store started carrying these skis called O’Brien. We scraped our money together and bought this red/silver/blue beauty of a ski called a Mach 1.
So here’s some random thoughts as you get back into the skiing cult:
A 50 year gap?! Wow how things have changed.
The majority of the cutting, filing, and sanding still happens, but its with a company’s developers and top skiers long before any production ski goes out the door.
The cumulative “ski knowledge” has increased exponentially since the ‘60s and ‘70s when the average tournament skier was a willing guinea pig.
The performance level expected out of any manufacturer’s product is high long before the first production ski hits the market. The idea of needing to cut / sand / file to make a ski work would mean it’s a POS and to be avoided at all costs. It would be near corporate suicide to put such a ski out today.
All of the modifications / improvements you mentioned were destructive – if the “mod” didn’t work out so well, the ski went into the trash. That’s hard to do with the prices of today’s skis.
Today we understand so much more about what fin and binding adjustments can do – that are fully reversible if they don’t pan out – that is where the majority of the experimentation and learning takes place.
Its been a few years since I had a close look at one of KLP’s skis. The last time I did, I remember thinking that what was once a stock ski had now seen the business end of virtually every tool in his toolbox.
Without all the experimentation you mentioned, today’s skis would be nowhere near where they are, so we all learn from those pioneers. I don’t see any slowdown in ski tuning, its just different.
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As I enter into the elderly divisions of the sport I find the daily bowel movement has more of a effect on ski tuning then ski tuning itself. Lots of fiber in the diet equates into less ski tuning.
Take a tip from the jumpers: dump before you jump!! !lol
These days, file a little too much on a bevel and there's a decent chance you're gonna find you self looking at the foam core peeking out. That is a bad ski-tuning day for sure.
Back in the day the designs were pretty crude so bevel tuning was all there was. Heck we did not have any idea what could be done with a fin until the mid-late 1980.
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https://finwhispering.com/product-category/books/
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Connelly ★DBSkis ★ Denali ★ Goode ★ Follow ★ Hobe Lake ★ MasterCraft
Masterline ★ Performance Ski and Surf ★ Reflex ★ Radar ★ Stokes
WTF? I use a grinder on all my skis - unless the sawzall is needed. Bondo (actually Superfil for me) is also pretty useful to undo the grinding or seal up the core you exposed.
The reason you have a ski is to ski well on it. If tuning it makes it better, great.
Since I'm saying you might want to tune a ski, here are the basics:
Rounded edges ride deeper in the water, sharp edges lift. Decide where your ski isn't working for you and make small changes. During the process, take lots of sets. (If you take enough sets, your skills will improve enough that you will get better - regardless of what you have done to the ski.)
If you screw up, rebuild the edges with Bondo.
Evaluating a ski after tuning it can be enjoyable and rewarding. Sometimes it actually makes the ski better for you.
Eric
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A Good One Ball Gives You Six
FINS . . I experimented with edges of skis and binding positions constantly for 30 years, making skis work for me, but what I learned doesn't mean anything with the new skis which aren't constructed with surplus non-structural sidewall material like the old skis.
We never experimented with fins decades ago, except in the 60's everyone learned that drilling a couple of holes would prevent the ski from turning sideways after crossing the wake, throwing you out the front apparently because of a vacuum pocket behind the fin.
CAN SOMEONE ELABORATE ON FIN ADJUSTMENTS ? at least of few of the basics.