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Slow out of the hole - 2007 196

ORANGEBALLSORANGEBALLS Posts: 9 Baller
We picked up a 800 hr 2007 196 this winter. It runs great at 34 and 36. We are stoked. It skis great and is oddly quiet at speed.

The only weird thing is that it is totally gutless out the hole. Deepwater starts or oddly slow. Any ideas?

Comments

  • AndreAndre Posts: 1,548 Mega Baller
    edited January 31
    What prop? 330 hp? Does the engine missfire? Thing to check is fuel pressure in acceleration...
  • Bruce_ButterfieldBruce_Butterfield Posts: 1,863 Member of the BallOfSpray Hall Of Fame
    Does it have Perfect pass? If so, be sure the cable is tight on the servo. That can cause slow pickup.
    I'm Ancient. WTH do I know?
    jpattigr
  • Ski_DadSki_Dad Posts: 480 Baller
    like Andre said what prop do you have - my malibu with 375hp was gutless with a 13x14 cast prop that was on it from previous owner - they just wanted to go fast. I switched to an Acme 13x11.5 and it was literally like twice the holeshot.

    If I'm not mistaken I believe the Acme 422 is the prop for the 196. But if you already have decent prop it could be something simple like cap/rotor and plugs.
  • buoyboy1buoyboy1 Posts: 127 Baller
    I have a 2005 196 converted with ZO and also have the 422 prop. I agree with @Ski_Dad to check cap, rotor and plugs. I replaced a cap and rotor after only 25 hrs. Problem solved.
  • ORANGEBALLSORANGEBALLS Posts: 9 Baller
    Prop is ACME 422 so that is not he answer.
  • elrelr Posts: 328 Mega Baller
    Cap, rotor, plugs every other year . . .
    Ed Rink - LSF Texas
  • RGilmoreRGilmore Posts: 90 Baller
    You might want to switch to the ACME 668 prop. Gave us a much stronger hole shot with better performance at lower speeds, at little to unnoticeable high-end expense. But, of course, Your Mileage May Vary - literally.

    Skip Dunlop out of Polk County, Florida is the go-to guy for ACME prop information, repair, and sales.
  • 6balls6balls Posts: 5,567 Mega Baller
    Set up right that boat should have so much hole shot that you don't use all the throttle. Seems prop is reasonable...therefore tune-up like others have suggested. Perhaps a compression test.
    Dave Ross--die cancer die
    Than_Bogan
  • igkyaigkya Posts: 738 Crazy Baller
    @ORANGEBALLS Is there any vibration (prop/shaft/steering wheel)? What's your top end speed and what elevation are you at?
  • vtjcvtjc Posts: 277 Solid Baller
    What motor does the boat have? 5.0, 5.7 or 6.0...
  • jimskijimski Posts: 588 Crazy Baller
    What were you skiing behind before. Maybe it’s just different
  • dvskierdvskier Posts: 698 Crazy Baller
    I have a 2004 196 w/330hp Excalibur that will rip your arms off Running an Acme 422.
    PatMrockdog
  • hogexpresshogexpress Posts: 109 Baller
    edited February 1
    I had an '07 196 with the 330 Ex and 422 prop. When i got it it had alot more hours than yours and also sluggish out of the hole. Turns out the engine timing was off.
    Keith Sims - South Carolina
    thager
  • jpwhitjpwhit Posts: 96 Baller
    As with any boat issue, you can go about it in two ways. You can guess and start throwing parts at the problem. The other approach is to systematically debug the problem and then replace what is proven to be broken.

    I'm not passing judgement on which approach, and sometimes it makes sense to do some amount of replacing parts and then switch to systematic diagnosis. If things like rotor, cap, plug wires, plugs, and inline fuel filter are due anyway you may as well do that as a first step. Personally, I wouldn't go beyond that on the swapping parts approach because it's slippery slope and next thing you know you've spent a lot of time and money and it would have been cheaper to pay a good shop to find and fix the problem.

    You can do some of that systematic diagnosis with reasonably priced specialized tools such as fuel pressure gauge and compression tester.

    To really do a full systematic approach for a problem like this, you need some form of marine diagnostics software. Rhinda Technologies DIACOM or TechMate is the only fully turnkey solution for boats. Boats use the same J1939 diagnostics protocol as commercial Trucks and heavy equipment. You can get some much cheaper code readers intended for heavy equipment, but to make that work you have to wire up your own connectors. And the number of capabilities varies a lot between those solutions. Some just read fault codes and others can do more advanced capabilities like show live data from the engine.

    The number of things that can cause slow hole shot is quite long. Besides the things mentioned here, you have knock sensors, temp sensors, timing, injector flow rates, etc ......
    MDB1056
  • loewebloeweb Posts: 27 Baller
    If it sounds good out of the hole and doesn't hesitate or sputter, I'd re-prop it and see if that helps.
  • dbutcherdbutcher Posts: 457 Crazy Baller
    It could be that a previous owner had that Acme 422 prop re-sized or re-pitched. That should be easy to check before spending a lot of money. It might even be worth a phone call to ask the person from whom you bought the boat if he/she knows if the prop has been modified or if he/she had your problem.
  • MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 582 Crazy Baller
    Not to oversimplify things but there are not all that many things that can cause this. If the engine starts ok and isn't misfiring, sputtering, or stalling then its pretty safe to say it's running on all cylinders. As @jpwhit already noted if it's already overdue for tune up items go ahead and do them as a matter of maintenance but that not likely to solve the issue. Simplest item up front is just check the timing. As @hogexpress noted, can easily impact. If that's correct the next super easy thing is just do a compression check on each cylinder. Very simple. Prop topic has been addressed already and you have a correct prop. You really need to validate these two important items before moving further. They're both very easy.
    ReallyGottaSki
  • h2onhkh2onhk Posts: 338 Crazy Baller
    Maybe I'm wrong but unless you have access to a DIACOM i'm not sure how you verify timing is correct. Its set by the cam. My 2007 196 placard states it needs to be 0-4deg. Obviously a dealer or marina can check this for you.


  • jpwhitjpwhit Posts: 96 Baller
    @h2onhk you are correct. The EX series PCM engines self adjust the timing. But the CAM Retard has to be in the correct range and that has to be set using DIACOM.

    @MDB1056 our club's 196 developed the same slow out of the hole issue years ago. It ran great otherwise. Turned out to be a faulty knock sensor. Hole shot was night and day different before and after the repair.
    luckyosun
  • MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 582 Crazy Baller
    Would think you can still easily check the timing as a prelim diagnosis step. If correct, no need to set
  • paulpaul Posts: 52 Baller
    Our ‘02 MC was slow out of the hole - turned out to be a bad plug. Couldn’t tell it was missing though
  • MDB1056MDB1056 Posts: 582 Crazy Baller
    edited February 3
    @paul - have to say I’m surprised to hear that. I’ve never owned any V8 that didn’t feel noticeably different if a cylinder was misfiring . Boat or car
  • paulpaul Posts: 52 Baller
    We had an issue in our ‘16 MC (6.2L) this year as it was backfiring on acceleration. No other issues. Turned out to be a bad injector. No codes or check engine light.
  • ricorico Posts: 322 Crazy Baller
    funny a friend of mine has the exact same issue. works great in the course but slow out of the hole. No issue with prop though but the engine is not taking its revs. It is staying at low RPM and slowly getting revs. Feels like it is getting too much or not enough gas.
    Eric Francois - Studio City, CA - Denali C-75 - Reflex
  • AndreAndre Posts: 1,548 Mega Baller
    Check fuel pressure.
    Check fuel pressure.
    Check fuel pressure.
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