RTP rubber ripped around screw holes?

SlalomSteveSlalomSteve Posts: 124 Baller
edited March 22 in Skis Fins Bindings
I just moved my RTP strap back one hole, and on one side, it seems two of the holes that go through the rubber underneath the overlay have ripped open. When I unscrewed, several pieces of rubber fell off. And now one side is definitely different than the other. I have no idea if it rescrewed it "correctly," and I didn't think to look before hand if it was "unbalanced" at all before moving it (the fact that the top of the strap is slanted is cause it's adjusted to my foot, but I mean the amount of rubber being held down on the sides). All the screws are super tight.

Is this okay to just let it be? Can you get just a replacement rubber piece?
Here's some pictures:

much more rubber held under

much less rubber held under, and the piece my thumb is touching, I can move it back and forth a bit (since it's not connected along the outside of the screw).


  • dchristmandchristman Posts: 1,333 Mega Baller
  • dchristmandchristman Posts: 1,333 Mega Baller
    I always thought the overlay was just an extra bit for marketing, but after similarly ripping out a few toe pieces I now consider it somewhat of a failsafe.
    Is it time to ski, yet?
  • SlalomSteveSlalomSteve Posts: 124 Baller
    edited March 23
    Can I get some more life out of this or is it now a safety risk to not replace the rubber? If I'm replacing the rubber, I'd also consider just buying a new different RTP. Not that I'm unhappy with this one, just that it's the only one I've ever had, and I know there's some good love out there for HO, Wiley, and Radar as well.
  • MattPMattP Posts: 6,312 Mega Baller
    Just buy some new rubber and keep a spare. It will rip from time to time. Replace the screws with shorter ones. This will put the rubber in a better compression and will be less likely to rip.
  • DaveDDaveD Posts: 1,031 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Do you really want to risk an injury to save a few bucks?
  • 6balls6balls Posts: 5,870 Mega Baller
    I'd buy a new one and keep the old as a spare to use only in case of failure long enough to buy another new one.
    Dave Ross--die cancer die
  • SlalomSteveSlalomSteve Posts: 124 Baller
    New rubber purchased!
  • lpskierlpskier Posts: 3,433 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Use longer bolts to put it together, and once it is together, swap out the new bolts for the old, going one at a time.
    John Wilkins- Si non pro sanguine quem ludus ne. #iskiconnelly
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 1,170 Mega Baller
    consider ditching the cap nuts, replace with nylon insert stainless lock nuts; better compression/eliminate cross-threaded cap nuts.
  • jhughesjhughes Posts: 1,150 Mega Baller
    Mind blown by the cap nut replacement idea AND the longer screw swap-out idea. Absolute gold.
  • SlalomSteveSlalomSteve Posts: 124 Baller
    @lpskier I'm not sure I understand. You're saying put it together with longer screws, then swap out one-by-one for the regular screws? What advantage that does give?
  • BroussardBroussard Posts: 684 Crazy Baller
    @SlalomSteve Sometimes it is difficult to put enough pressure to get the screws into the capnuts. Using long screws makes it a lot easier to get the rubber and "horseshoe" (plastic rail in the case of a RTP) into place.
    Andre Broussard | Action Water Sports | SkiBennetts |
  • BobFBobF Posts: 225 Solid Baller
    Yep, I've even used nails as a temporary holder, replacing them one at a time w/the short screws.
  • lpskierlpskier Posts: 3,433 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    What @Broussard said.
    John Wilkins- Si non pro sanguine quem ludus ne. #iskiconnelly
  • mike_mapplemike_mapple Posts: 217 Water Ski Industry Professional
    @lpskier just got to get your grip strength up! Just kidding, I still use the long screw method 99% of the time when changing rubber on Rear toes, Ive pretty much retired from doing boots tho, to many finger cramps and almost putting a screw into my thumb. My rear toe on my ski has the front two screws about 2 inches longer than the rear on each side.
    [email protected]
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    If you have a blister, pop it, pour some lemon juice on it, and then add salt. -Andy Mapple
  • SlalomSteveSlalomSteve Posts: 124 Baller
    @Gloersen, I grabbed some nylon insert lock nuts.. but they don't fit in the plastic "rail" slots, the diameter is just slightly bigger than the cap nuts that came with it.
    Have you had any trouble with that? I might be able to hammer the lock nuts down in there, but don't know if they'd ever come back out lol.

  • skialexskialex Posts: 1,279 Mega Baller
    Hammer them down with a mallet or a hammer, nothing is wrong with that...
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 1,170 Mega Baller
    edited March 27
    @SlalomSteve using the longer screw technique will grab the nylon lock nut; upon tightening the nut will seat itself snugly into it's recess. The screws can then be replaced with a length more flush with the nut, though a bit of protrusion is unlikely to cause harm.
    Also, if the nuts stay in the plastic clamp, it just makes it easier next time rubber is replaced; like a threaded insert.
  • SlalomSteveSlalomSteve Posts: 124 Baller
    edited March 28
    alright, got them installed! Final question: should the screws/rubber be tightened down as hard as they go?... cause I realized one of them is so tight I can't unscrew it without stripping the screw head... I suck at this DIY stuff.

    Thanks for all your help everyone!
  • GloersenGloersen Posts: 1,170 Mega Baller
    ^^ even compression and rather snug, but retain ability to back off each screw 1/2 a rev. Bit of an art to slalom diy stuff.
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