Question for you engine builders

OREGON85

Three weeks ago I pulled the oil drain plug on my boat (2000 Nautique, GT-40). While the oil was draining I got a call from my wife’s friend who she was mountain biking with that she had crashed and broke her leg and I dropped my tools and rushed to meet them at the ER. Now, three weeks and a surgery later I’m thinking about the boat again. When you drain an engine even if it is warm and you let it sit for a couple hours oil still clings to surfaces. But three weeks is a bit different. I want think I can just fill it up and be on my way, but I remember from the once or twice I have been involved rebuilding engines pre-lubing parts during assembly. Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks!

S1Pitts

I would just pull the coil wire and crank it for a bit to pre-lube the bearings. I do this every spring start up after it has not run for 5 months.

Jody_Seal

pretty robust engine the 351 is. if you do decide to pre oil it you really need a pre oil tool that goes in place of the dizzy.



if you do decide to turn it over and get some oil pressure pull out the spark plugs the engine will pressure up better with less wear and tear on the starter

2Valve

Absolutely nothing to worry about. People let their boats sit all winter, and crank them up in the spring with no issues. Although if it makes you feel better, take @S1Pitts recommendation and spin the motor without it firing to bring the oil pressure up.

JackQ

Jody’s suggestion is the best solution. But have your oil draining/drained for a month is essentially the same as having the engine sit for a month. The crank and everything except the oil pick up is above the oil level in your engine. I do believe that any significant drain has occurred in excess of what would happened it just the engine sat for a month.

DW

The oil in the pan is below all the parts that spin therefore an empty oil pan is not much different from one with 4 quarts of oil in it. The amount of 'pre lube' for your situation is no different than if there was oil in the pan. As noted if you do want to be cautious, follow Jody Seal's suggestion or at minimum pull the coil wire to spin it over. It is important to have oil in the filter before you start it up.

Jody_Seal

I can only assume the engine may have been hot when oil drain occurred. I would think walking away for a month the engine would be completely dry so speak. not like doing an oil change in 30 min and doing a restart and top off.
fill the oil filter and install fill oil pan. remove spark plugs( Good time to check gap) unplug hi pressure fuel pump, disconnect the coil, turn the
engine over numerous cycles. reinstall parts and fire engine with water supply.

Kevin89MC

FWIW a number of years ago (10+) I changed the oil in my '89 ProStar with the 351, late in the evening before bringing it to storage for the winter. When I got to the storage place the next morning, I realized I never pulled the drain hose back up through the bilge. The 30 mile trip ground the cap off and I accidentally left a long thin strip of oil on the highway, as it was empty when i checked it. Couldn't do too much about it at the time other than cross my fingers, storage place ran a tight schedule. In the spring I put a new cap on the hose, filled it up, cranked it for a bit without firing, and did not have any issues for the next 8+ years I owned the boat. Mine sat "dry" for about 6 months with no problems, so guessing yours should be just fine. Good luck!

ForrestGump

In a previous life, I built a whole lot of 1000+ hp engines. While to the naked eye, after a month your parts will be oil free, they really aren't. Oil is embedded in the pores and is still a film on the bearing surfaces, journals, cam, etc. Within 2 revs of the motor, the pickup will be filled and by the next you'll be pressurizing the oil passages. It's always best to pre-lube the engine under pressure. You can overcomplicate and obsess about too many things. Fill it up, crank it up.

Jody_Seal

it would be my luck it would score a rod or cam bearing.
Old Fords are notorious for oil pressure loss. piston slap in #2 and sticky lifters.
its always for me to cya..

ForrestGump

I used to build a pressure preluber out of a Moroso poly oil pressure canister with a air fitting on one side into the cannister. Then the outlet had a valve to a hose I'd screw into the oil pressure sensor port. So you didn't need to pull a distributor. Screw the hose into the OP port, Close the outlet valve, Pour oil into it, pressure it to 25psi with a compressor, open the outlet valve and spin the engine over with a breaker. 25psi will push oil everywhere it needs to go and no dealing with distributors. I built it for Ford 4.6 DOHC Mod Motors, which had no distributors, which we were racing at the time. You could build that for $150 today I think.

BraceMaker

@ForrestGump you can do it for cheaper build the canister out of PVC, use a threaded cap for one end and adapt to a hose onto the other side with a simple brass hose nipple from the hardware. Drill a hole and pull a simple tirestem through the cap and voile. Skip the valve just lay the canister down while you fill it.

Fastguy888

@OREGON85 Are your mechanical skill such that attempting to pre-lube the engine could potentially leave more opportunity to hurt something then the relatively low possibility you will cause any issues filling it up with oil and firing it up? Personally speaking as a relatively good mechanic; I have caused more damage overthinking things and consequently breaking things that were otherwise fine.

Wayne

Since it was established that draining the oil isn’t much different than when the engine just sits. How is draining hot any different than shutting off a hot engine and just letting it sit for 3 weeks?

I’m of the opinion that pre-filling the filter, fill the engine with oil and just start it up will be fine. The only time I’ve taken the precaution of priming an engine oiling system was on a completely new engine build or one that has sat for a duration measured in months or years.

LeonL

It's pretty easy to pull the distributor and stiick a home made shaft down in the oil pump slot and spin it a little with a drill. However, I don't think that would be necessary.

Rednucleus

Ok, how many of you guys pull your boats out after their long winter's nap and do any pre-oiling exercise vs starting it up as is? (Maybe an interesting poll question)

LeonL

Not me! As I stated above, I don't think it's necessary, but if it would make him feel better..... I would also hope that since it's been several days @OREGON85 is already skiing.

ALPJr

@Rednucleus we’d change the oil and run a little ‘engine stor’ through the carb before we put our PS190 away for the New England winter. Always fired right up with no issues 5-6 months later in the spring.

Jody_Seal

@Wayne
the key here is it was drained and he walked away for a number of weeks. not like draining a hot engine and refilling and restarting inside of a few min or few even hours.
oil pan as well as passages are absolutely dry. on a old ford GT engine already known for oil related issues, meh! 6 if one half a dozen of another but if a customer came into my shop telling me that story I would pre oil it before cranking back up. again cover my ass!

I have a 700hp bbc sitting on the floor that has not been fired in a number of months. full of oil even changed it before it was laid up.
not going to fire it with out a prelube and oil pressure check.

Wayne

@Jody_Seal I can see your point for covering any possible liabilities.

tjs1295

I wonder how many marinas in cold weather climates do this for the clients they are getting boats ready for? The same ones they winterized back in September. I've never heard of doing this to my boat engine until this thread.

Andre

@tjs1295
My guess,none.

LeonL

No update from original poster?

OREGON85

It still sits as I described. I wish I was out skiing….

But a wife with a broken leg and small children running about has left little time. Plus it has been a cold, wet spring here.

I think I’ll take the intermediate approach and put a little oil in the filter (not much, since it is nearly horizontal), fill the engine and crank it with the distributor wire disconnected. I appreciate all the perspectives.

Two more weeks and she should healed enough to drive!