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GT-40 tune up??

WishWish Posts: 8,008 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
edited September 2011 in News & Other Stuff
Wanna change the plugs and wires on my GT-40. Can both be bought at the local car parts store??? What would I be looking for in terms of plug size and wire length? Are there a preferred brands?? @jody seal.
>>> 11.25..a different kettle of fish. <<<


  • Bruce_ButterfieldBruce_Butterfield Posts: 1,663 Member of the BallOfSpray Hall Of Fame
    Go to Discount Inboard Marine They will have plugs and everything else you need for tuneups.

    If it goes in a ski boat they have it. Very knowledgeable tech support as well.
    I'm Ancient. WTH do I know?
  • WishWish Posts: 8,008 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Thanks. I've worked with them before. Very knowledgeable folks. Was asking about a car parts place because I have a friend that works at one and he can get half price on parts.
    >>> 11.25..a different kettle of fish. <<<
  • MarkTimmMarkTimm Posts: 113 Baller
    Search the forums @

    The GT40 is the same motor as the F150 Lightning, most of the parts are interchangeable.
    Mark Timm
  • east tx skiereast tx skier Posts: 595 Solid Baller
    edited September 2011
    You can buy the plugs at WalMart or Napa. Autolite 764 copper tipped plugs gapped at 0.045.

    The wires are 8mm with right angle boots. A bit hard to find the right angle boots already cut to size. Skidim or White Lake Marine are your friends for these. Make sure you use the discount codes for either CCF (at Skidim) or Planet Nautique (at White Lake).
    Perpetual Longline Baller. Tyler Ski Club, Tyler, Texas.
    My real name is in my profile.
  • 6balls6balls Posts: 5,340 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    How often should a guy w/a GT40 do a tune up?
    Dave Ross--die cancer die
  • WishWish Posts: 8,008 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    Ditto on that question but I would add how many hours???? I had a buddy tell me that the wires in a boat are in fact different than a car interms of insalative factors (more for boat wires) for safety as the motor with spark and fuel reside in a very confined space. He also suggested that due to the substantial build of a wire that belongs in a boat that it's conceivable that the wires would last much longer than traditional wires in a car and would be changed far less frequently. Any truth to that?? Where did Jody S. go?? He's gotta have an opinion or two on this.
    >>> 11.25..a different kettle of fish. <<<
  • walleyewalleye Posts: 197 Baller
    1998 S/N GT-40 1000 hours Ram-lin trailer
    Plug wires = Twice 400 hours & 900 hours (Napa)
    Spark arestor = cleaned 3 times
    Water pump = 1 sherwood pump replacement Discount Marine
    Plugs = Every 2 years (Napa Motor-craft)
    Impellor = Every 2 years or when needed if you suck mud or sand. Discount marine
    Oil/filter change = Every 50 hours Valvoline 40wt racing oil Napa Gold.
    Rotor and cap = twice 400 hours & 900 hours Napa
    Timed = checked at 900 hours and was right on
    Fuel cell filter = Every 100 hours, discount marine
    Rudder = remove clean and grease once a year will save your steering cable.
    steering cable = Original cable
    Gauges = replaced 2, temp and oil pressure discount marine
    Winterize = fill cylinders with fogging oil, Drain water from block and oil cooler. Use the water pump to suck pure anti-freeze into block till runs out exhaust...(no water or bio safe) I feel it does not protect as well IMO. remove plugs on water jackets, flush any rust out.
    Belts = changed both at 600 hours Napa.
    Seat covers = Replaced driver and passenger, clean with mister clean scrubs dries it out and caused cracks.
    Starting relays = original
    Trailer bearing = removed and replaced with oil seal bearings. If you have grease and don't trailer your boat far you need to really stay on top of it, water will not be forced out and eat your bearings (use only marine grease).
    Transmission = Every 100 hours valvoline. buy a 12v electric pump worth it.
    Trailer bunks = original, I replaced carpet once at 300 hours. Now I set my trailer deeper and get off my ass and assist driver loading, no carpet wear now.
    Trailer steps = wood rotted 400 hours replaced with aluminum diamond plate.
    Tires = replaced 3 sets of original brand non radial tire (junk). Buy a good radial tire no problems.
    Trailer lights = original un-plug your lights every time you back in the water.
    Gel Coat = I clean with zing every fall and wax with merguires marine grade wax. Do not use liquid wax or any other protectant during the year unless you clean gel coat first or you will just trap algae in the wax IMO, don't forget to do the bottom of the boat.
    Swim deck = turned to crap...tried everything still crap after end of each season. Coated with Line-X black no problems and looks great 4th year. Does not scratch ski or get hot (only coat sides and top) cost 60 dollars maint. free.
    Batteries = replaced 3, odd size make sure you buy one that fits and keeping proper voltage is crucial.
    Grounding/fuse = Remove and run your own better ground.
    Gas = Add Sta-bil every winter with a full tank. Make sure you run it a while so it gets into the entire fuel system. I run a can of injector cleaner every year.

    Good Luck boating is expensive but lot's of fun and a great sport to raise your family in. Your owners manual has some other things you should do.
  • WishWish Posts: 8,008 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    @walleye. Thanks for the info. Great stuff.
    Say, looks like u just went to an auto parts store. How exactly did you know what parts to get. Can you just ask for Ford 351 1997-98 parts?? Or were you more spacific?
    >>> 11.25..a different kettle of fish. <<<
  • boarditupboarditup Posts: 585 Crazy Baller
    Alternator, starter, distributor, carb, and in some cases fuel pump are marine specific. Plug wires are not marine specific, but I suggest 8 or 9 mm wires with grease on both ends. Blue Sta-bil every fill up will keep water from accumulating in the fuel. Techron every third tank keeps the fuel system from varnish and gumming up. Spray down the entire motor with PB blaster and wipe down a couple of times a year and and winterization to maintain appearance and keep corrosion at bay. When you work on the motor, you will really appreciate the lube of the fasteners. It makes future work easier, faster, and cheaper.
    Karl DeLooff - Powered by the wind
  • DWDW Posts: 2,138 Mega Baller
    Plug wires will last much longer in a ski boat as there is much less underhood temperature. Automotive plug wires tend to run close or next to the exhaust manifolds which are not water cooled which leads to them deteriorating faster in the automotive environment. The factor in marine, noted above is the moisture issue. What you want is a very good seal between the plugs and boots / cap and boots. One way to check plug wires is to view them in the dark while the engine is running to see if there is any spark leakage.
  • walleyewalleye Posts: 197 Baller

    Discount Marine, excellent service, parts, price and Tech Knowledge. When I go to Napa I bring my part in, I had problems cross reference...they do not know what a GT-40 is. I believe Gravel ski is correct in the F-150 lightening...part guy at Napa said same thing and the rotor and cap were correct. Boarditup is right also any thing but generic parts go to discount or rep dealer. When I say part store, Napa only for me....just my boat is my baby the vans I drive are crap and get what ever is cheap....just a personal opinion been on both sides of the fence.
  • east tx skiereast tx skier Posts: 595 Solid Baller
    I believe, specifically, that it is the 1989 F150 Lightning. ICBW.

    I do the plugs every other year. Same with the fuel filter. 3--5 years out of the plug wires. I'm not putting crazy high hours on my boat though. Marine Stabil without fail.
    Perpetual Longline Baller. Tyler Ski Club, Tyler, Texas.
    My real name is in my profile.
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