Two sets on my Nano 1 with the factory setting. It feels slower from side to side compared to the twist. I run the same buoy count on both skies but I have to work twice as hard to get the same thing on the Nano 1.
I was hoping the magic that would get me out the gates at 38. Can't see it on this ski unless some changes. It's a different animal so I'm not sure where to start. Any ideas?
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My waterski vocabulary has officially outstripped my skiing credentials. I geek.
I'll try no wing. Got nothing to lose.
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Connelly ★DBSkis ★ Denali ★ Goode ★ Follow ★ Hobe Lake ★ MasterCraft
Masterline ★ McClintock's ★ Performance Ski and Surf ★ Reflex ★ Radar ★ Stokes
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Connelly ★DBSkis ★ Denali ★ Goode ★ Follow ★ Hobe Lake ★ MasterCraft
Masterline ★ McClintock's ★ Performance Ski and Surf ★ Reflex ★ Radar ★ Stokes
I believe the Nano One can "feel" slow when it actually isn't, because of the way it takes a long sweeping, yet very tight radius, turn. Because the ski never slows down too much at the end of the turn, it doesn't need to accelerate a lot to get that speed back.
Thanks to Newton's sometimes-annoying laws, you can't feel speed -- only acceleration. So when the cycle of acceleration and deceleration is damped a bit, the ski "feels" slower.
I think we've all seen that this ski is smooth and easy enough that you can get right back to your best scores on the first or second day. But this ski is also very different, and I think to get the MOST out of it, it's going to require time on the ski to learn how to take the maximum advantage of what it can do.
As I noted in another thread somewhere, the weirdest thing about this ski is that it's not as "fun" as older Goodes, because there's no "shot-out-of-a-cannon" phase. Instead it just keeps bringing me to the next buoy with room to spare. How boring!
On a setup note, I think 10 degrees is worth a shot. I started at my "usual" 7 and felt the carry-out was not good. Dave Goode suggested I add wing. Sounds unintuitive, but 8 was better than 7 for carry-out and 9 was perhaps even a touch better. I haven't tried 10 myself yet, but I may. I'm guessing that somehow the extra wing angle delays the "shut-down?" And because this ski can shut-down so fast it can make you run narrow if it's not setup right and/or you're not skiing it quite right.
Anyhow, my point is only to TRY both less and more wing, to see if either one solves the issue.
Chet and Chad did a video on this set-up, that I believe is still on the Goode Web-Site.
@Horton wrote – “ Try going back to stock on the fin and move the bindings back.”
@Scotchipman wrote – “I'm open for suggestions on how to increase the speed but not sure I can go back any farther on my boots”
How can moving the bindings back and displacing more weight on the back of the ski make the ski go faster?
Thanks!
bindings back means you can hold more angle and edge => more speed
Move bindings forward yes you have more ski under and behind you but less leverage against the tail => less speed
Note this is a rule of thumb and only works to a point.
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Connelly ★DBSkis ★ Denali ★ Goode ★ Follow ★ Hobe Lake ★ MasterCraft
Masterline ★ McClintock's ★ Performance Ski and Surf ★ Reflex ★ Radar ★ Stokes