Progressor Training ropes, Good/Bad

DonskiDonski Posts: 52 Baller
edited August 2008 in Technique & Theory
<p>
 Was wondering what  the pros and cons were with using a Progessor Training rope. With added loops at 18.5, 25, 30 and 33.5 dose this help with working on new line lengths.
</p>
<p>
Wondering what your guys thougths are on this training technique?
</p>

Comments

  • <p>
    This year I installed Perfect Pass Stargazer in my boat (before this I have been hand driving the boat) and for the first time I have been able to control my speeds to the tenth of a mph.  I really thought this would help me move from one rope length to another by starting slow and increasing my speed a tenth or 2 as I got comfortable with each one.  The problem with that method is that to get comfortable with each speed takes many sets.  If I was able to ski everyday I think this method would work great but I only get a day and a half each week to ski as many sets as possible.  I started out the year using the speed adjustment method rather then the half loops.  After 2 months of skiing my 32 off pass I found that I was still 7 tenths of a mph under my max speed so I decided to go back and start working the 30 off loop at full speed also.  Less then 2 weeks later I am running my 32 off at 3 tenths under my max speed and I am smoother at it then I was before.
    </p>
    <p>
    I highly recommend using the half loops at full speed to help make the transition from one rope length to another.
    </p>
  • Thomas WayneThomas Wayne Posts: 550 New Baller
    edited August 2008
    <p>
    I think half loops are a great training aid, but I would suggest using them a little differently than most. The typical use goes like this: say you've got a -30' loop and you're trying to gain ownership of -32' - so you ski -22', -28' and then go to the -30' loop, trying to master that before you tackle -32'. Assuming they can make 90%+ of their -28' passes, I think that's how most guys would utilize a -30' loop.
    </p>
    <p>
    Instead, try this: run your -22', and then go directly to -30'. Your initial consistency will drop off - remember, you're usually running -28' - but soon you'll be nailing most -30' runs. Now -32' is only 2 short feet away. Same process applies to shorter lines; once you "own" -32' you skip it and go straight to -33.5' (on the way to -35'). When you own -35' you skip <em>that</em> and go straight to -36.5', because you're trying to sneak up on -38'.
    </p>
    <p>
    In other words, instead of using the half loops as <em>extra</em> passes (intermediate "baby steps"), try using them to make a length you have already mastered <strong>harder</strong>, thereby reducing the gap you have to jump to get to the next loop.
    </p>
    <p>
    That's the funny thing about rope - most people want more, but we [skiers] want less. Go figure.
    </p>
    <p>
     
    </p>
    <p>
    TW
    </p>
  • DonskiDonski Posts: 52 Baller
    <p>
    I to treid the speed control method going from -100, -50, -25 ect. Seemed like a slow improvement and messed up my gate timing, Maybe just me. I ski every other weekend so time on the water is an issue.
    </p>
    <p>
    With the half loop method as a training techique who benifits more the skier like me who's opener is 15, then three passes at 22 working onform, which is improving ("THANKS JOHN") than hitting a wall at 28 4 ball. Or the skier that opens at 28 and skis thru 32?
    </p>
    <p>
    I did use the half loop method 4 or 5 seasons back and ended that season with my PB.
    </p>
  • Thomas WayneThomas Wayne Posts: 550 New Baller
    <p>
    If you typically start at -15' and then take three "form" passes at -22' - thereafter not <em>quite</em> making -28' - you would be much better off going -15', -22', -25', -25' and then -28 (in my opinion)
    </p>
    <p>
    TW 
    </p>
  • DonskiDonski Posts: 52 Baller
    <p>
    Thanks for your input, i agree running -25's might help get me thru -28 faster.
    </p>
    <p>
    Looks like i will be ordering a new rope and give it a shot.
    </p>
    <p>
     
    </p>
  • HortonHorton Posts: 27,150 Administrator
    <p>
    I have not done it much but like the idea. It makes me mad that I can stroke 36.5 but not 38.
    </p>

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  • Thomas WayneThomas Wayne Posts: 550 New Baller
    edited September 2008
    <p>
     Forget ordering a new rope. You can easily splice up a 3-foot section with loops at each end - bigger loop at one end for linking onto your rope, smaller loop at the other end to slip onto the pylon. When you're ready to go from -22' to -25', just have your driver (or boat "crew") slide the large loop [of the 3-foot section] over the mainline from the long-line end until it just passes the -28' loop. Then feed the body (small loop end) of the 3-foot section through the -28' loop and onto the pylon. You're now skiing at -25', and if you make it the boat crew can simply pull in to the -28' loop and away you go.
    </p>
    <p>
    Easy peasy, and not too sleazy.
    </p>
    <p>
    TW
    </p>
    <p>
    (PS: the 3-foot section doesn't have to be pretty - you can even get away with just tying a couple of figure-8 knots at each end of a scrap of old ski rope, as seen below)
    </p>
    <p>
    <img src="http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n293/ThomasWayne_2006/figure_8_knot.jpg" border="0" alt="Figure-8 knot" width="500" height="600" />
    </p>
  • DonskiDonski Posts: 52 Baller
    <p>
    Thanks T.W. thats a good idea, i was thinking along the same lines this past weekend. The only differance was attaching the 3' section to the PP switch and putting an addtional clevis on the other end to attach to the rope. Easy on and off.
    </p>
    <p>
    Ran some -28 this past weekend "Very ugly but felt good". Cant wait to run some -25 sets and see if i can smooth things out.
    </p>
    <p>
    Thanks
    </p>
    <p>
    DS
    </p>
    <p>
     
    </p>
  • Director DarwinDirector Darwin Posts: 385 Baller
    We've kept the PP switch in the boat and when working on 35/38, we install the rope switch to aid in training.  I've found that slowing the boat only makes it more difficult to gain width at the buoy.  The 1/2 meter the switch provides is perfect when you're working on 35 and 38.

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