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Trailer bunk repair - lifting boat

brucewbrucew Posts: 3 Baller
I need to repair the trailer bunks and want to do this at home where I've got better tools than trying to do it at a lake. I've got a big shop that I could set up a couple of large beams on supports that span the width of the boat and could attach some come alongs to to the lifting. I've got a 94 Tige tournament ski boat. There is a bow hook and 2 stern hooks that I should be able to attach to for the lifting. Looking at a couple of new boats of similar size, I figure my boat runs around 3,000 lbs. What's the distribution of weight between the stern and bow so I can determine what size beams I'd need. Anyone else set up a home garage lift for trailer repairs? Thanks


  • gregygregy Posts: 2,590 Mega Baller
    edited April 2013
    I have. I used lifting straps. I use the bow hook for the trailer with a strap on each side with a spreader bar between them. In the back I use 2x4 blocks wrapped in padding between strap and hull. You want to keep the straps from putting any pressure on the bump rails. In the front I stuff an old blanket between the straps and hull.

    First time I did this I bent the bump rail at each strap location so be careful. I have a large a frame in the front and a fork lift in the rear.
  • gregygregy Posts: 2,590 Mega Baller
    I think 3000 lb is probably accurate. Loads front to back I think would be fairly even on a direct drive. My setup lifts it easy. Be careful with come-a-longs. Most are rated for pulling loads and not designed for lifting. I use a 3 ton chain hoist on the front.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 4,620 Mega Baller
    Before getting too creative, you can usually use the tongue jack and floor jack to elevate the boat enough to unbolt and pull the bunks out.

    You basically lower the tongue of the trailer, which raises the stern. You then go back to the stern and crib the boat up non whatever you have, heavy wood is best, with some folded up old bath towels to pad the hull.

    Then you go back to the tongue jack and crank it up all the way, which pivots around the axle of the trailer, lowering the rear of the bunks and raising the front.

    Then if you have the front under one of your beams use a good heavy duty strap or chain to sling the bow, I didn't have a good beam (2x4 truss pole barn) so at that point I slipped my floor jack under the and lowered the tongue jack so the bunks were able to be un bolted, slipped em out and re-carpeted them, then reinstalled in place.

    Either way with the range that the tongue jack lifts you have enough swing between full down and full up to create meaningful difference in bunk height to get the boat off the trailer and let you work on the bunks.

  • brucewbrucew Posts: 3 Baller
    Thanks all for the tips. I'm thinking what ever I do, I'll just get the boat high enough to undo 1 bunk , take it out, replace with a temporary bunk wrapped in a towel, and lower it back down on the trailer. Recarpet and then do the operation for the next bunk. That way the boat wouldn't be suspended above the trailer for a very long. Last Friday, when I had the boat off, I took a closer look and my carpet isn't too bad. My friends boat is in a lot worse shape which got me thinking about mine. So this will probably be a project for next winter. I'll try to remember to post my results then.
  • east tx skiereast tx skier Posts: 598 Solid Baller
    I'm told old tires stacked and spaced appropriately work well, too. I have always moored the boat while we did this kind of work instead of dry docking.
    Perpetual Longline Baller and curvy ski boat owner.
    My real name is in my profile.

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