Jump surface

bojansbojans Posts: 319 Solid Baller
In prepping our ramp to go in this year we found that we are in need of an overhaul this fall. Our ramp is a steel frame (in good shape) that is decked with 5/4 treated boards and a ~1/4" 3 section fiberglass surface that we bought used. At a bare minimum we need to replace the underlying wood decking and do some glass repair, at that point I think we may be looking for a whole new surface.

There are 2 options I am aware of;
1)A Beeman surface - any idea the cost of this?
2)I know that Jeff Smith and Rick Oppenlander had purchased a 2 piece surface that was intended to be sides for a box truck. Any idea how this held up or does someone have contact info for Jeff or Rick?

Any pros or cons of these options as well as any other options would be appreciated.

Comments

  • ForrestGumpForrestGump Posts: 6,288
    edited June 2013
    @bojans Last I checked, a Beeman surfact was $7500+USD. You can reach Rob Beemman at 863-293-2405. Another option is to procure marine grade plywood and have a marine fiberglass company encapsulate it in resin and then gel coat it. Any good boat fiberglass repair shop should be able to do that and you'd have about $1500-2000USD in it.
    Shane "Crash" Hill

    MattP
  • MattPMattP Posts: 6,313 Mega Baller
    I think MasterCraft will still do a surface but for around 8k as well.
    I will check and see what we used for our ramp
  • KillerKiller Posts: 484 ★★★★Quad Panda Award Recipient ★★★★
  • klindyklindy Posts: 2,775 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    @bojans Jeff and I built that ramp so I can help with questions too. I'm not positive that the surface has been replaced since it was originally built (circa 1992). Originally it consisted of 3 pieces (8'x14') which are glassed on both sides - smooth gel coat on one side and open woven texture on the other. We then covered the whole surface with another layer of mat. The plywood is a very high quality (9 layer?) 3/4" plywood that holds up very, very well. Extra care was taken to mop the resin over the exposed edges and we inspected/repaired annually as needed.

    Shoot me a PM and we can discuss more.
    Keith Lindemulder
    AWSA Chairman of the Board

    bojans
  • LeonLLeonL Posts: 2,649 Crazy Baller
    Unless you're very good I'd be Leary of glassing the bottom side. It's almost inevitable that a porous point will allow water into the plywood and then it won't dry out properly. The "open underneath" will allow it to breathe. Don't use treated plywood. Resin won't adhere.
    Leon Leonard Stillwater Lake KY - SR Driver SR Judge
  • klindyklindy Posts: 2,775 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    To be clear, we didn't glass the bottom side. The panels are produced that way by the manufacturer in a press. Although I would agree that all the screw attachments poke holes through the fiberglass. We drilled and countersunk all the screw holes and put a shot of silicone rubber in each before using a self drilling-tapping screw to hold the deck to the frame. It made a bullet proof surface that lasts a long time.
    Keith Lindemulder
    AWSA Chairman of the Board

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