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Poke holes in my plan
WBLskier
Posts: 476 Baller
Next summer I plan to permanently place one of our portable courses and attach the buoys when we plan to use it (we can leave in for a few weeks at a time) and let it sit on the bottom when not in use. I've read the many threads on this forum on this topic, but I'm still looking to problem shoot before hand as much as possible. Here is the situation:
Large public lake
Very large cross winds will occur at times during storms (our portables have always made it through these storms but have sagged which maybe helped them)?
Lots of boat traffic
8-10 foot consistent depth
Super clear water (some weeds but not to the surface)
Zebra mussels are now in the lake
Water level might change a foot or so over the course of the summer.
So here is my plan.
Use schedule 40 2" pvc pipe for all sections.
Stainless mainline throughout.
150' or so of cable on each end from 55 to anchor.
Use large heavy permanent cement anchors with rebar driven through it into the bottom on each end attached with chain to a 3' screw in spike.
Have a junction of some kind between the 55's and the anchor for tightening if needed. Considering a come along in there but wondering if that is necessary if it is tight to start with.
Here's where I'm undecided:
1. Do I use 2" pvc arms for the skier buoys or do I just use separate individual anchors for the 6 skier buoys?
2. If I do the latter, will the course move once it is set (end to end) so the skier buoys don't line up with the gate buoys?
3. Should I anchor the mainline in a few places so there is no bowing in the middle (again, if it bows and the skier buoys are not connected then they end up being out of place?
4. Is it better to just have sub-buoys of some kind rather than raising the course to install the buoys? I think finding them will not be that hard as clear as the water is.
5. Is there a subfloat system that would allow us to install buoys from the boat rather than getting into the water? I'm thinking of some kind of automatic leveling system that would also address changes in water level.
6. The water is clear enough that I could just anchor the entire portable course to the bottom and just deal with the buoys if there is a good system to do that. This seems a lot easier than setting individual buoy anchors.
7. Zebra mussels are likely going to attach to the pvc...this could mean the skier buoy pvc sections could end up weighing a lot and sagging more than you would normally expect (even if I put floatation on them).
I'm interested in hearing what worked and didn't work from others who have gone this route. Thanks ballers.
Large public lake
Very large cross winds will occur at times during storms (our portables have always made it through these storms but have sagged which maybe helped them)?
Lots of boat traffic
8-10 foot consistent depth
Super clear water (some weeds but not to the surface)
Zebra mussels are now in the lake
Water level might change a foot or so over the course of the summer.
So here is my plan.
Use schedule 40 2" pvc pipe for all sections.
Stainless mainline throughout.
150' or so of cable on each end from 55 to anchor.
Use large heavy permanent cement anchors with rebar driven through it into the bottom on each end attached with chain to a 3' screw in spike.
Have a junction of some kind between the 55's and the anchor for tightening if needed. Considering a come along in there but wondering if that is necessary if it is tight to start with.
Here's where I'm undecided:
1. Do I use 2" pvc arms for the skier buoys or do I just use separate individual anchors for the 6 skier buoys?
2. If I do the latter, will the course move once it is set (end to end) so the skier buoys don't line up with the gate buoys?
3. Should I anchor the mainline in a few places so there is no bowing in the middle (again, if it bows and the skier buoys are not connected then they end up being out of place?
4. Is it better to just have sub-buoys of some kind rather than raising the course to install the buoys? I think finding them will not be that hard as clear as the water is.
5. Is there a subfloat system that would allow us to install buoys from the boat rather than getting into the water? I'm thinking of some kind of automatic leveling system that would also address changes in water level.
6. The water is clear enough that I could just anchor the entire portable course to the bottom and just deal with the buoys if there is a good system to do that. This seems a lot easier than setting individual buoy anchors.
7. Zebra mussels are likely going to attach to the pvc...this could mean the skier buoy pvc sections could end up weighing a lot and sagging more than you would normally expect (even if I put floatation on them).
I'm interested in hearing what worked and didn't work from others who have gone this route. Thanks ballers.
0
Comments
If your lake freezes, it should be fairly easy to install the anchors through the ice.
With super clear water, it should be easy to swim the buoys in. You may even be able to devise some sort of pole to reconnect to the subs without getting in the water, depending on how you set up the sub buoy loops and the buoy lines/hooks. Set the subs about 4-5 feet below the surface.
Not a mechanic but I play one at home