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Rear Binding Mounting Help

I put a Radar HRT for my rear boot on my new HO Omni Syndicate. There were no instructions with it so I put the large flat screws on the front of the binding and the smaller headed screws in the rear. I tightened them down tight but noticed that the boot moves after I ski it. I have attached some pics of the setup. Have I mounted the HRT binding incorrectly or does it just need to be tighter? How tight is too tight?

Thanks for the help!


  • rawlyrawly Posts: 526 Crazy Baller
    Screws are in correct positions. Crank it down hard. Tough to over torque it with a screw driver.
  • DirtDirt Posts: 1,641 Open or Level 9 Skier
    @Woody74 It may need shorter screws in the rear or some washers. Some skis are thin in the back and have short inserts.
    I learned everything I know not to do from Horton
  • oldjeepoldjeep Posts: 3,594 ★★★Triple Panda Award Recipient ★★★
    My hrt came with 4 of the bigger flat headed screws and did not have that secondary plate that is sitting on top your plate.
    Chuck P
    Not a mechanic but I play one at home
  • DavidNDavidN Posts: 439 Crazy Baller
    Use the same screws in the back as you used in the front.
    Get rid of the horseshoe aluminum piece.
  • ScottScottScottScott Posts: 1,020 Mega Baller
    The screw could be bottoming out in the insert before holding the plate down nice and tight. You don't want to over tighten and strip the insert within the ski. Good and firm, but not cranked down too much should be enough to hold without it moving around.Try taking the HRT off the ski and just running the screw in to see how far it sticks up after bottoming out in the insert.
  • WayneWayne Posts: 511 Solid Baller
    The Radar counter sink head screws are about 3 threads too long when used on an HO ski. HO doesn’t have the wide hole pattern only the narrow one, so you really need to use the horse shoe. If you don’t there are “windows” around the screws so you can rotate the plate on the ski. So the large head screws don’t have sufficient surface contact with the plate to hold the binding down safely.

    I would either file about 3 threads off the screws you have or run to the hardware store and get some stainless 8-32 counter sink head screws that are shorter. I haven’t purchased HO bindings in a long time, the hardware kits they used to include had the right length screws that would also work with the Radar plates.
  • BraceMakerBraceMaker Posts: 4,417 Mega Baller
    D3s washers also work great

  • WayneWayne Posts: 511 Solid Baller
    Wonder if I’m confusing the sequence plate with the individual plates with regards to the slots behind the rear boot.
  • igkyaigkya Posts: 726 Crazy Baller
    My buddy's HRT does the same thing and he's on a Vapor. After messing with a few times, he decided that's where it wants to be and just left it there. If it's not hurting your skiing (and the screws are tight), what's the harm?
  • Woody74Woody74 Posts: 37 Baller
    edited September 2018
    Thanks for all of the advice everyone!. I am going to take the HRT off and check the length of the screws to see how much sticks out if and when they bottom out on the back holes and I will also grab a couple of shorter 8-32 counter sink head screws as well just to be safe.

    @Wayne Also, I just found two black washers/spacers in the box the boot came in. I suspect I use those on the back of the boot between the horseshoe plate and the top of the HRT plate to possibly help with the Radar counter sink screws being too long for the HO rear holes?

  • powbmpspowbmps Posts: 135 Baller
    @Woody74 pretty sure those washers go under the front screws. For reference, front Radar bindings come with 6 of those same screws, and 6 washers to go with them.
  • Woody74Woody74 Posts: 37 Baller
    @powbmps Thank you!
  • ZmanZman Posts: 1,691 Mega Baller
    @Woody74 What @powbmps said, and others.
    The washers are for the two front screws.
    You absolutely should NOT eliminate the horseshoe. People have cracked plates around all those slots not using the horseshoe. They include it for reason.
    You may need shorter screws. But, be sure to engage at least 3 full threads. You should be able to count how many turns once the screw grabs. Less that 3 is a weak connection and could eventually strip. That would not be fun.
  • Woody74Woody74 Posts: 37 Baller
    Thanks for all of the help with this everyone! I took the rear binding off and screwed in just the screws. The Radar screws were bottoming out on the rear holes. I swapped them with some 1/2" stainless 8-32 counter sink head screws and am good to go. @Zman I kept the horseshoe and with the new screws was able to get ~6.5-6.75 full threads when fully tightened. I also added the washers to the front screws. I will test it out later this week but seems like the back screws bottoming out before being fully tight was the issue.

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