Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

______________
12" White Stickers
______________
BallOfSpray $5 Donation
______________
BallOfSpray $10 Donation

Binding adjustments

SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
edited July 2012 in Technique & Theory
I'm looking for some help on binding placement fine tuning. With my current setup I have a perfect off-side turn followed by a great stacked position going to my on-side. My problem is that if I am anything less than perfect going into 2, my on side turn becomes big and round. I can get through 35 like this but it's killing me at 38. At 35, either my 2 ball or 4 ball will seem great, but rarely both, any mistake and I get the slow turn. My fin is at stock and the ski behaves perfectly, I think it's a question of binding placement. I already moved the back binding back one hole and today I set the rear binding dead straight and will try it like that. Anybody have any other suggestions? Thanks.
Time spent on the water is time well spent.

Comments

  • A_BA_B Posts: 4,232 Mega Baller
    Moving the rear boot back or both boots back will increase sharpness of the turns, but rotating back boot to little toe is supposed to help onside turns, not straight.

    If you like the skis attitude behind the boat, I would suggest putting your boots back to where they were and tweak the fin to get it more responsive onside. Increase dft .003 and reduce depth .001 and see what that does.
  • SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
    Thanks I will give that a try. I got mixed signals about back boot rotation from different places where Schnitz makes reference to it. I do remember however that if my rear binding is too turned out that it has a negative effect on my skiing.
    Time spent on the water is time well spent.
  • A_BA_B Posts: 4,232 Mega Baller
    I have found that turning my back boot too far hurts my offside without much difference onside. To compensate, I believe some rotate the front boot outward. I think it depends on leg shape, bowleg, knock kneed, etc.
  • SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
    When you turn your back boot, do you move the heel or the toe of the boot to get the angle? For instance, it's easy to swing the front of my back binding left or right but very difficult to move the heel. I wonder if moving the heel has more effect?
    Time spent on the water is time well spent.
  • A_BA_B Posts: 4,232 Mega Baller
    I move the Rear both in front and heel. Front goes toward little toe and heel goes opposite. Your center will still be in middle. The theory is that as you turn your back foot on your onside turn to level, you sort of over-turn as the foot tries to get back to center

  • SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
    Thanks AB, I tried the fin tweak and it isn't the solution. It gave me a little on-side slack and only a minor change in the turn. I will move on to the binding placement next and give it a go.
    Time spent on the water is time well spent.
  • GarnGarn Posts: 536 Crazy Baller
    reduce depth .001 and see what that does
    1/1000 of an inch? Can anyone really tell a difference in 1/1000 of an inch?
  • igkyaigkya Posts: 705 Crazy Baller
    The bigger questions may be "Can anyone accuarately (and consistently) measure to a 1/1000 of an inch"?
  • SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
    Depth and length yes, DFT not so easy. The 3 thou dft (which was 3-6 thou in reality) was definitely noticeable.
    Time spent on the water is time well spent.
  • SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
    I moved only the rear of the back binding 1/2 inch to the right (RFF skier) and now I have a great on-side and mediocre off-side. So I think cutting the move in half will solve my problem. @AB thanks for the help.
    Time spent on the water is time well spent.
  • SMSM Posts: 529 Crazy Baller
    FYI - follow up. The rear binding move solved my problems completely.
    Time spent on the water is time well spent.
Sign In or Register to comment.